Thanks, is that about a two gallon can? The majority of the foliage which has yellowed seems older leaves, mostly lower on the plant and toward the interior of the bush. That is normal. Foliage requires good light exposure to produce more food than they require. Older foliage is continually shed after the plant reabsorbs the nutrients from it (turning it yellow) to push new growth. Your flowers have only recently shattered. It's too soon to expect that pot bound plant to push any new growth or flowers. The spotted foliage I can tell from the photo is that which has turned yellow. "Yellow" means the plant has sucked the sap from them. That reduces their immune system ability to resist diseases. If that bugs you, pick off all the yellowed foliage. Pinch off the spent flowers, leaving all the green leaves in place. Don't cut down the canes to remove those spent flowers. Leave all the wood and green foliage the plant already has. Plant it. There is nothing I see in that photo to indicate there is anything wrong with the plant other than: Stressed from being in the can too long. Stressed from having temperature, light, watering, etc., change from where it WAS to where it IS. Probably stressed from having the fertilizers the growers push into the plants to get them retail ready (so you'll buy them), mostly washed from the soil due to the frequent watering required to keep that size plant salable in that size pot. Ready to push out new growth once it gets some root room, more nutrients and probably more consistent soil temperature and moisture instead of more widely fluctuating moisture and temps being stuffed into that can subject it to. The foliage just under the flowers (the newest, youngest foliage and growth) appears just fine. It's the oldest and that which is shaded from the best sun exposure which appear to be yellowing. Expect that as that is what happens with ALL plants as they grow. Just provide for this one as you have the others you've grown for years, remembering this one is more "juvenile", more of a "baby" than the adults already in your garden. So, it's going to require a bit more attention and patience as the others did at that "age". Have fun! Kim

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I planted it in the ground right after I purchased it. Like most new fruit tree growers, I am learning from the school of hard knocks. It is probably 3 to 4 feet tall with 4 or 5 young figs on it and several nice leaves. Just worried as the yellow then brown effect has gone up the plant to effect about 3 large leaves and given the young nature of the tree, I am worried this trend will continue. I am growning an odd affinity for my fruit trees! We have a very good local nursery and I guess I had either gotten the advice or misunderstood the advice and I planted in direct sunlight (he did warn me to cover the roots with pine straw to help with heat on the roots). It has been very very hot up here in the panhandle of Florida(after we had record rainfall for June). I feel like I planted it towards the end of the rainfall, so I believe heat is the issue at hand. (my satsumas and meyer lemons are living it up, but the celeste fig does seem stressed.) Al, thanks for the great lesson on 5:1:1 soil. I have made some good batches of that for my container plants and it looks and feels fantastic, plants seem to really be taking to it and drainage is outstanding. Probably should have started the fig tree out in a pot until I learn something. Thanks for all the replies. Any advice on helping the plant out after I made the mistake of planting it in direct sunlight?

I know this is horribly outdated, but I figure I'd post for documentation in case it helps anyone else in the future. Tawni: Your photo looks exactly like what I saw on my tomatoes. I took eileen_nv's suggestion about spider mites and looked them up. The description seems to match. Also, I'm not sure if this was present on your leaves, but I inspected my infected leaves closer and noticed many white/clear specks on them. And some of them were moving. So, I guess those were the tiny little spider mites. Some resources I found for controlling spider mites: http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/orchids/2003010242014131.html http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/brug/msg090328378869.html http://www.entomology.ksu.edu/DesktopModules/ViewDocument.aspx?DocumentID=4173 (it's a PDF titled "Spider Mites on Tomatoes" from Kansas State University)

My Ti plants are notorious for attracting aphids in the early spring. I would check for those first. Sometimes they are down in the furled leaves just coming out too. One other thing could be too much water. Sometimes the colors are not as vivid in the winter either, I think due to lower humidity dries out the leaves a little. Maybe someone else can add some other ideas too.