Ok, cool. I mowed once in November but mowed mostly weeds as the grass wasn't very high. But that's how it was with my 12,000 sq ft. seeding in the fall of 2007. So I think Dimension is the way to go but I'm having trouble finding it without fertilizer mixed in. How bad would it be to fertilize a new lawn in April? I was going to wait until May but I might have to fertilize earlier if I can find Dimension by itself. Yes, I'll send pics later in the spring. The 2007 seeding looks great and I have good results so far with the 2008 seeding....

Lou, IMHO the best option is prevention with a pre-emergent. I say this because of the mechanism by which they work. When they are applied to the ground they sink into the soil a short distance and stop and forms a layer that when the growing meristem (the growing point of roots) from germinating seedly roots of weeds contact this layer, dell division is stopped at the growing point. This does no harm to anything that has already been planted as their roots are BELOW this zone, and do not contact the pre-emergent. I have read that Corn Gluten was found to have some of this properties, however the effectiveness is uncertain. It apparently varies considerable, perhaps due to soil chemistry, and micros present. AT the least it does not seem to last as long. Another alternative is the active ingredient of "HALTS", which is supposed to be very effective for a fairly long period. I did some research upon it, and it breaks down after a period of time and if I recall correctly, has little effect upon anything else. This would make sense since the blocks cell division at the apical meristem (with many unique plant hormones), and animals/fungi don't have apical meristems. However this does nothing to the weeds that are already the. 2-4-D will kill broadleaf plants, and degrades fairly quickly BUT does have some potential to enter through the roots, therefore you don't want to get too close. Also 2-4D is almost always mixed with other things that are more persistent in the environment (though they do degrade)to broaden spectrum of action against other weeds i.e. crabgrass. You can use this CAREFULLY for control now, if control is required NOW, but it would not be my first choice. Glycophosphate would be my first choice as it breaks down VERY quickly in the soil, and it bound up almost immediately on contact with the soil, therefore is does not reach the roots to cause problems. It's breakdown products also act as fertilizer, but as always don't over apply. It also can only enter through exposed green tissue, so if you hit the bark, as long as there is no wound, then no problem. IT works by simulating a plant hormone, and therefore has very little effect on animal life. But it will also kill more than weeds if sprayed on them. So careful application is required, and be sure not to get it into water that will eventually run off, as while it breaks down fairly quickly in water as well, it can kill a great deal more photosynthetic organisms as it is much more mobile. This would be my first choice to use on weeds that are already there. JMHO Arktrees

IF you are going to use a chemical "weed and feed", better carefully read the label as the product will kill a lot more than weeds. Also, contrary to popular belief, St. Augustine needs 5 or 6 hours a day of sun shine. Now, before Lou starts in about shade tolerant varieties of St. Augustine, yes, there are some new strains, they are expensive and it involves resodding your lawn. To reiterate about CGM, an application of less than 20 lbs. per 1,000 sq.ft. has limited effectiveness, and a heavy rain immediately after application will render the weed killing effect nill. If your desire is to use a natural approach, you need to understand how products work and what to expect of them. Most of the grassy weeds will die out in the heat. Others will be crowded out as the grass regains its vigor as it comes out of dormancy. The best way to control a lot of weeds is with a healthy lawn. Further, I have been praticing organics for 50 years and my present property for 35 years. Don't expect a property to turn around in 1 or 2 years as it will take that long at least to get the toxics out of your lawn and garden.

Corn Gluten Meal will not only work quite well as a pre emergent but will add Nitrogen to your soil as well as organic matter.