Re: Pruning a Multi-Leader (11') Maple Tree
Pecci
4 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (11)
Pecci
4 years agoRelated Discussions
When/how to start pruning a japanese maple sapling
Comments (16)take both the lower ones ... to get over the mailbox.. we are talking 4 feet MIN ... and we are going after that now ... why wait until you are cutting off one inch branches.. making big wounds??? and i would still reduce the dominance of the second leader.. to favor what i might call the third ... and finally.. keep in mind.. almost NOTHING there now.. will be there.. when the canopy is to your preferred height ... and.. again ... if you look at the first pic ... all that will be there is the leader that looks like it goes in the garage ... crikey... WHY DO YOU WANT/NEED TO DEVELOP MULTIPLE LEADERS DOWN BELOW ???? ALL THE LEAVES ARE FOOD MAKING MACHINES.. TO GROW THE ROOT MASS.. TO MAKE A FUTURE TREE .. carp.. darn caps lock ... so we never want to remove too much at once .....but if your goal is height.. why do you want multiple leaders down low now ... again.. trees heal wounds .. but its easier to heal a 1/4 wound .... than a inch or two wound ... one trick.. as you drive around town.. just look at other specimens.. if you cant find JM's to look at.. you arent trying very hard .... just study how others have done it.. and when you start 'seeing' what they did wrong.. you will be well taught ... [you usually find the bad ones.. in front of businesses .. lol micky d's.. etc.. when they prune them 3 times of year.. to our horror ...] ken...See MoreGreen splendor multi leader
Comments (5)plant them ... let them deal with winter ... and let them get established.. next summer ... and then.. next fall.. THEN lets remove half the canopy ... since you have 5 to deal with ... i might .. on two of them.. reduce the extra leader by half .. ensuring dominance of the other ... and on one.. i would remove the extra leader at the bottom ... and i would plant this one on the end ... lol .. in case it fails ... its called experimenting.. and then... you can be the resident expert here on GW .. lol ... and spend endless years.. pontificating on the true way .. lol.... i am mocking myself.. should that not be clear ... planting guide at the link .... ask about what confuses you ... no fert.. and no amending.. pay attention if clay soil ... and do understand... that when doing volume ..... you are most likely.. going to have problems with a few ... if you dont.. do a small happy dance.. you won ... since they were mail order.. i presume they are pot bound.. its hard to grow a two foot tree in a shippable pot ... ask if you want info in regard to root surgery ... but you are going to have to figure out how to post a pic.. if you want good info ... these should be rather bulletproof ... if the stock is decent ... the planting is proper.. and the watering after is perfect .... good luck ken ps: i might put them in full shade for a couple weeks ... we dont want to plant them.. and then get a week of 90 plus ... if you do.. do NOT let the black pots be in any sun ... dont care about the green tree above .... pps: pruned at the right time... you might be able to root cuttings ... new post for that ... if interested Here is a link that might be useful: link...See MoreAutumn Blaze Maple 2 Leaders - with Pics!... 'Use this thread'
Comments (8)From what I can see, I wouldn't, but of course you have to live with the tree. I don't see any aesthetic drawbacks to doing what I suggested because the two branches we're talking about will emerge so close to the main leader that they will 'read' as originating from the main leader. I have several maples in the landscape and a couple of dozen in containers. I prune healthy trees any time I feel like it - usually with a purpose/plan, but with no regard to 'bleeding'. I recommend late dormancy pruning for two reasons. Branches that need pruning and o/a form are much more visible - the future growth habit of the tree more readily discernible, and the chance of disease spread is reduced greatly. The healing of any pruning wounds is more rapid in spring/early summer than at any other period in the growth cycle, so for me, that clinches the case for late winter/early spring pruning. I've never seen a case documented where 'bleeding' affected the long or short term vitality of an Acer, much less a documented case of a tree 'bleeding to death'. I often suggest that if the sap flow is a concern - wait until the tree appears to be resting after the spring growth flush has matured. There should be very little bleeding then. You can also make a case for late dormant pruning from an energy management perspective. What sense does it make to prune the growth off immediately after the tree has spent nearly all its energy reserves to build it. If you prune BEFORE budswell, the tree will move energy from the roots into the remaining organs and not the parts you intend to remove. Al...See MoreHow Should I Prune this Japanese Maple? (photos)
Comments (6)My initial thought was also to prune that tall leader. However, after doing a search on Atropurpureum Nana,I'm thinking this branching structure may be characteristic of the cultivar. I think that's what you're saying in your last post too. Given that, I would only do some minor trimming, just to tidy it up, like getting rid of branches that bend towards the center of the tree. I recently found a book at my local library that had some tips on how the Japanese prune their JMs. JMs were only a small section of the book, but it was very helpful. The title was "Niwaki: Pruning, Training and Shaping Japanese Garden Trees" by Jake Hobson. It's also on Amazon. Here is a link that might be useful: Atropurpureum Nana...See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
4 years agoPecci
4 years agoPecci
4 years agoPecci
4 years agoPecci
4 years agoL Clark (zone 4 WY)
4 years agoPecci
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
Related Stories
TREES11 Japanese Maples for Breathtaking Color and Form
With such a wide range to choose from, there’s a beautiful Japanese maple to suit almost any setting
Full StoryFALL GARDENING11 Trees for Brilliant Fall Color
Give your landscape the quintessential look of autumn with the red, orange and yellow leaves of these standouts
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDES12 Japanese Maples for a Sunny Garden
The right maple in the right place shines in hot summer sun
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDES5 Best-Behaved Trees to Grace a Patio
Big enough for shade but small enough for easy care, these amiable trees mind their manners in a modest outdoor space
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGN11 Enduring Kitchen Ideas From the Industry’s Biggest Event
We visited the Kitchen and Bath Industry Show and found that many familiar kitchen features appear to be here to stay
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESAn All-Star List of 10 Shade Trees to Plant This Fall
These tried-and-true varieties offer good-sized canopies, seasonal interest, wildlife benefits and more
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGN10 Flowering Trees Landscape Architects and Designers Love
These blooming beauties make lovely additions to gardens — bringing color, fragrance and pollinators
Full StoryTREES10 Spectacular Trees for Courtyards and Tight Spaces
Here are some top small-scale trees for 4-season interest, easy care and little mess
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESDwarf Citrus Trees Offer Miniature Size With Maximum Flavor
Find out how to grow the fruit you love in a smaller space
Full StoryWINTER GARDENINGHow to Help Your Trees Weather a Storm
Seeing trees safely through winter storms means choosing the right species, siting them carefully and paying attention during the tempests
Full Story
User