Aloe, keep above freezing and dry when it is chilly Crassula, don't know, some are hardy, some are not. E. grusonii, hardy in your climate but keep dry in winter, skin may mark in cold humid conditions. E. oxygona, hardy in your climate, but keep dry in winter. H. attenuata, best above freezing but can take a little frost. Kalanchoe, don't know. M. plumosa, can take some frost but very prone to rot, best above freezing. Often loses roots, may be best indoors and watered occasionally. Pachypodium, don't think they like frost. Rebutia, hardy in your climate but must be dry. Sanseveria, don't know. For all of these, they should generally be above freezing during the day. Periods of day and night freezing temperatures will damage or kill most of them.

You can protect a fairly large area from wind instead of each plant individually. Each situation and exposure is slightly different, but your plan above seems entirely reasonable. This is by way of an aside, but I'm finding the burlap available today very inferior to what was available only a few years ago. The weave is much looser, individual threads less substantial. This means it tears away from staples or other fasteners too easily and provides less protection. In the last couple of years I have been using frost protection fabric instead of burlap. Anything that filters and slows the wind without blocking it entirely will do the job. What damages azaleas and other evergreen plants in winter is dessication. Frozen roots in frozen soil cannot move water into the above ground plant tissue. Winter sun on the leaves raises the temperature of the leaves causing them to transpire moisture which then cannot be replaced. Couple this with wind which also has a drying effect, and you are essentially freeze-drying the plant. The result in the spring is brown dead leaves and stems. How much winter sun is too much? This is really impossible to say. No direct sun is necessary in the winter, so blocking it to a reasonable degree will help any evergreen make it through the winter in good condition.

If you have well draining potting mix, excess water would drain out thru drainage hole. Next watering should be done when the mix is just about dry. If plant is potted in soil that drains poorly, it gets very wet and dries up slowly, and that is not best for succulents. To improve drainage, it is better not to use fine soil and/or peat, since it will be quite water retaining. Buying bag of perlite and mixing lots of it would help, many ppl do it in 50/50 ratio. Other inorganic materials could be added too for even better drainage as I already mentioned. Pot that is double height of the plant is usually too large, and since there is lots of fine soil it will take very long time to dry up. If that was my plant, I would use pot about 1/2 that size. I would fill it with mix high enough so the plant doesn't sit too low inside of pot. IMO, there is too much soil piled up around the leaves - soil level is not too high for the pot but plant is too low inside of soil.

Lol Robert! I am in the same boat as you. Going crazy without anything to do. My hubby is the most happiest that I am not gardening out. I would be out if I could. Our temps are down sometimes to below freezing now. My anemone de caen corms are sprouting in the yard so waiting if I can get some blooms from them. My miniature alliums too started sprouting so early. Planted a mix of tulips,hyacinths, daffys and crocus. I think I see daffys sprouting. I have some ranculus to plant in feb. I just keep on visiting all the mail order sites, keep adding stuff and deleting the cart. Lucky for me some of my jasmines and chinese perfume are generous enough to bloom to satisfy my nose. If you keep your mysore mulli in a warm place it will keep blooming for you. My arabian nights too is producing buds now. Moo even in the basement is producing buds. So maybe if you have a very bright and warm spot you could get jasmine to bloom imdoors too.