My raspberries are in sandy soil and I didn't water them at all until the big heat waves of the past ~5 weeks, and they've done splendidly. Once the drought and heat hit for a while, I've been watering them about twice a week and they are still healthy. So I wonder if you've been watering just way too much. They don't need a ton of water. They're much more robust than, say, pumpkins or peas, which start looking really bad if you don't water them at least once a day if not twice a day.

Yes, the turf has been physically wet almost every day for the last three months. In some areas I can see the soil black and glossy.

Hi Vagner, Slow up on the fertilizer as well as water. Fertilize once a month at half the rate of fertilizer, not each week. Later after any transplant shock has stopped, then you may fertilize more often. I think reducing the water (let it almost dry out between watering. If the soil is dry when you stick a finger in all the way, then water. Otherwise, do not water). Transplant shock - surely. That's only natural. Your symtoms however remain in the fact that too much water is being applied. The fertilizer situation however. At this point in time it seems to be doing fine. No matter what though, you need two seperate jugs. One for water only and one for your water/fertilizer mix. You're doing a little overkill there using that much plant food. There's no need to use anything but water on any of your plants already containing the osmocote. You do the rest of the math meaning either use one or the other. If you see holes formed that are burnt and crispy then you're fertizlizing too much. I mention this for any future episodes that may occur and for everyone else reading this. Be sure too that your pot has a drain hole. If not, that's another whole problem in itself. Foliage with any lesions (brown marks) anywhere on a leaf, you're fertilizing too much))) Contorted/Twisted foliage, herbicide drift has occured. Holes with red stippling on leaves, insect damage. Holes occuring with no sign of insect nor brown lesions, I call it "Shothole Fungus". Black lesions on leaves or other discoloratoin and along with yellowing and/or holes as well - That would be a fungus. Good luck Dax

Hoverfly, it does indeed sound as if you have some infestation on your clematis. The easiest way to treat it if it is fungus or mildew is to get a combo fungicide/mildewicide from your local nursery and spray the plant. You might want to see if you can find a light horticultural oil that is described as being safe for application in the warm weather. Taking a leaf to one of your local nurseries when you go to get the spray may be helpful because they might be able to properly identify your problem and suggest the appropriate remedy. Identifying the specific culprit is difficult via computer and verbal descriptions. The other thing to consider is that perhaps the fungal/mildew infection is secondary to something else that is going on with your clematis. Your description of the leaves yellowing and then turning brown might be the result of the fungal/mildew infection or it might be something entirely different. I know gardengal who lives in the PNW responded to a poster a while back who was losing leaves on an armandii and said that there was some infection that can affect the evergreen clematis specifically. I can't remember if it was a systemic fungus problem rather than a topical one like you describe or not. Maybe she will see this posting and chime in. I think the safest bet would be to first see if there is anyone at the nursery where you purchased the plants that can help diagnose your problem or perhaps even someone at the local Agricultural Extension Agency. It can't hurt to spray the plant as I outlined earlier but I would hate to be overlooking another more potentially serious problem that someone in your area might be able to diagnose. Good luck!