Sissoo roots nightmare
plastike (usda 9b)
5 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Suanne Zone 9&11 Arizona USA & Sonora Mexico
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Yellow leaves on Sissoo and Cape Honeysuckle
Comments (5)Just to clarify that using vinegar does work to lower the pH of soil, BUT only in specific areas like small planting beds or containers. The immense soil volume in a yard is too large to be affected much by acidifying amendments. Iron deficiencies are expressed by yellowing of older leaves, especially in the tissues between the veins (which usually remain green). Ironite actually contains very little iron by percent of product. It works pretty well on lawns, but a better choice for trees and shrubs is chelated iron. Simply put, this is a water-soluble iron that can be absorbed by plant roots. New leaves that are yellow indicate a nitrogen deficiency. Yellowing leaves can also be caused by overwatering. The water in the soil pushes out the air. Oxygen is essential for plant roots to absorb nutrients. This is why deep, but infrequent irrigationis recommended. It gives oxygen a chance to make its way back into the soil....See MoreNew Sissoo not looking too good???
Comments (3)Dollars to Donuts it's over water. If you have the heavy clay soil that's so prevalent in this part of the valley Deep soaking too often will cause problems. The nursery grown trees are grown in what amounts to mulch, not soil. When you water, it runs right through and collects under the root ball where the clay allows it to collect. I had the same problem and lost one elm before I caught on. Start by cutting way back on the water...like none for at least a week. Then cut back your watering time. Start applying gypsum around the tree to start improving the drainage and keep it up for the first few years or until you see the tree start to "take off". My problem was severe enough that I had to pull the new 32" box tree out of the ground and add drainage to the planting hole under the tree. Mine is now starting to make a comeback. Hope this helps....See MoreMy 1st time gardening is becoming a nightmare...HELP!
Comments (5)You don't need to cut the canes. Brambles (raspberries, blackberries, and any other rubus plant) can grow in clay. Yes, you did bury them too deep. But brambles are tough. You fixed that anyway. Do not put tomatoes or peppers outside until night temps are above 50F, you can but they need to slowly be exposed to colder temps. You can bury stems of tomatoes and peppers, so not a big deal there. No need to water unless dry. The spring is wet, I hardly water if at all. Tomatoes and peppers need to slowly be exposed to light. Often grown in greenhouses if you bought plants, so you need to take 2-3 weeks to slowly increase sun exposure before you put them in the ground. Complete shade the first couple of days then an hour of direct sun a couple days and increase to 3 hours, etc. Back to the brambles the fertilizer is fine don't worry about it. It should not have been added until established, but it should not kill them. It sounds like you're loving them to death, leave them alone! If your garden beds are wet a lot you may want to consider raised beds. Wetness will kill just about anything. If water is pooling on top and staying there more than 2 hours, it's too wet for garden plants. Building raised beds will work well to keep them drier, but will require more water in dry periods....See MoreHELP! My 1st gardening experience is turning into a nightmare
Comments (7)The very first garden is always a bit of a trial and error so learn from your mistakes and enjoy your successes. And there will be some :-)) I'd just leave the berries alone for their first season and worry about pruning next spring. As a very general rule of thumb, you never want to fertilize something when first planted. Stressed plants are unable to assimilate the fertilizer properly and a new planting or transplanting is always going to have some stress associated with it. Mud is not necessarily a bad thing but poor or slow drainage is. Figuring out your soil conditions and any need to amend should be something considered long before any planting is contemplated, ideally last fall for a current spring planting now. The mud is most likely the after-effect of a freshly amended planting bed and a bit too much irrigation. As long as it dries out fairly rapidly - no puddling of water for more than a few minutes - then drainage is probably fine. And really no need to have lifted and replanted the berry canes. The issues with your peppers is that they may have been planted out too early. Hot season crops - like peppers, tomatoes, corn and eggplants and most melons - need both warm air temps and warm soil temps to establish and start putting on growth. In most parts of the state, that doesn't happen until well into May - Yakima's average last frost date is not until 5/15 or so, so overnight temperatures and ground soil temperatures would not be sufficiently warm enough to keep crops like the peppers happy. And if overnight temps dropped to around 40F or so, it could even be cold enough to kill them. Try again and don't be discouraged. You will learn a lot this season and be much better prepared for next year! And come back to ask any more questions you might have....See Moreiandyaz
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoplastike (usda 9b)
5 years agoNap z7b (TN)
5 years agoSuanne Zone 9&11 Arizona USA & Sonora Mexico
5 years agoplastike (usda 9b)
5 years agoAnne Graniello
3 years agoplastike (usda 9b)
3 years agoHU-322279075
9 months agoplastike (usda 9b)
9 months agobett64
8 months ago
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Suanne Zone 9&11 Arizona USA & Sonora Mexico