How much Physan 20 are you using in your wicking reservoirs?
Jeff Zenner
6 years ago
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irina_co
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Sizing up a reservoir(s) to complete system
Comments (2)Hello Jasol, A good general rule of thumb for nutrient reservoir size goes like this; Small plants like lettuce or strawberry's etc., 1/2 gallon per plant minimum. Medium size plants like bush peppers, herbs etc., 1 to 1-1/2 gallons per plant minimum. Large plants like tomato's or melons etc., 2.5 gallons per plant minimum. I have never grown palms, but going by your maximum size of 20 cm (I guess about 8 inches), they would fall in the category of small plants to me. So 1/2 x96= 48. If I'm not mistaken those bato buckets hold about 1 gallon of water in the bottom each, that would be 11 gallons right there (11 bato buckets). So 2-15 gallon reservoirs (30 gallons) and another 11 gallons in the buckets would be about 41 gallons total (more or less depending on how much is actually kept in the buckets). You would most likely be OK with that, especially if you kept the water level topped off, and changed the nutrient solution at least twice a month (as they bigger). Though it's always been my experience that a larger reservoir is always better. The larger water volume reduces nutrient fluctuation/concentration as the plants drink the water, and before you can top it back up with fresh plain water (thus back to it's original water level). Also with larger water volumes the nutrient solution dosen't need to be changed as often. I try to double the minimum water volume recommendations myself. But a lot has to do with the environment as well. In a hot dry climate (like mine) the plants will drink up a lot more water than they would in cooler humid environments. So temp and humidity will drastically affect how much water the plants drink daily. Each grower has different conditions and environments they grow in, so each grower needs to do some trial and error to find out what works the best for them. But Hopefully I was able to give you a good starting point. I would love to see some pictures of your operation (both soil and hydro). P.S. You probably already know this, but small seedlings don't need a fill strength nutrient solution. So starting out with a low strength solution, and increasing it as they get bigger is better for them....See MoreTo all of you 'Wicked Witches' out there
Comments (6)Sandstone, I think you have an important point in calling your situation "different." It isn't, really. We do have to take into consideration that there are some different characteristics in each "step" situation, and try to blend it all together - what is typical step stuff, what is unique to our own situation and what it just typical parenting stuff, divorced or not. It's really hard at times to get it all figured out. I also think that when we are dealing with children who are wounded by a previously dysfunctional family and became divorced, that when one of the parents takes on a new spouse or partner, that partner can become the target of all the wounded feelings and upset in the kids, whether the kids are children or adult children. Most of the time, the new parent isn't prepared to be the target of all this wrath or see the parent of the childdren be treated so badly. It's a tough and upsetting time. All I can say is read as much as you can and if you can find a group (or create one!) as a place to vent, collect information and regain balance, do! Most of all, it takes time. Family and relationship dysfunction didn't happen overnight. Rebalancing and bringing love into the equation is a long, patience-testing process....See MoreAV wick watering reservoir contents.
Comments (14)The process of forming these semi-solids only takes minutes, not the amount of time normally associated w algae or other naturally occurring spooges. I do soak my new wicks (lengths of acrylic yarn) in a solution of water w a cpl drops of dish soap in it before using. Maybe I should try rinsing them a bit in that solution. I do use a small amount of Physan20 in my water. Prevents algae but may be the root of my issue here. At any rate, I am still experimenting and at this point, all the ingredients of my water are fine except my two drops of dish soap to my gal of plant water. With soap I have nearly immediate settling. Without soap, crystal clear. Im not sure I need the two drops of soap but I thought it might help insure wicking when water reservoirs are low. More experimenting for now. I have backed off on the amount of water I add to my rock trays in an effort to curb that pesky powdery mildew. That stuff loves my minis. Mostly leaves the rest of my plants alone. I do the same thing you do Heather in that I have computer fans mounted on my plant racks. They run 24/7....See MorePhysan 20 on potted / containered Clematis Vines
Comments (7)The other issue is that they have yet to confirm the source of clematis wilt. The current premise is that there are two forms of 'wilt' - one (not very common) which is fungal in origin. Most clematis authorities have concluded that this is more of an issue under greenhouse/nursery growing conditions and seldom seen in home gardening circles. The second and likely most common occurrence is due to cultural issues....stressors that affect the growth of the plant and alter the vine's abilty to transport sufficient moisture and nutrients to the rapidly expanding topgrowth. The result is the wilting of the vine from the top down in the exact same manner as the fungal issue presents. Neither one is fatal to the vine and cutting back the wilted portion and tending the vine as normal typically results in healthy regrowth.....perhaps that season but typically for sure the following one. Since it is unlikely that the wilt most clematis gardeners encounter is fungal in origin, it seems premature and unnecessary to treat with a pesticide that will ultimately have no effect on the problem. IME of nearly 50 years of growing literally many dozens of different clematis (and working for a wholesale clematis grower), I have never encountered a wilt with a fungal origin. Any vine that has presented with wilt-like symptoms - and these include many nursery returned vines supposedly "dead" from wilt - has been due to unfavorable growing conditions that placed the vine under unnecessary stress: insufficiently prepared planting hole, relying on a single vining stem rather than encouraging multistemming from the root crown, not planting deeply enough, drought stress, an insuffciently developed root system not able to support the topgrowth. etc. By correcting these planting-related issues, the vines recover and perform as expected. Pesticides of any kind are simply not required....See More
dviolet1
6 years agoJeff Zenner
6 years agoirina_co
6 years ago
1beautylover2012
6 years agoJeff Zenner
6 years agolucillle
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago1beautylover2012
6 years ago
pelagikos7a
5 months agolast modified: 5 months agoirina_co
5 months ago
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