What parts of the basement are underground? Where are the windows? Where are the stairs? I'd be tempted to put the bathroom where the sewage line is, and put the bedroom on the other side, where the wt bar is. I'd put the wet bar where the bedroom is...or where the hall is, on the other side of the Home Theater. If you go with your original design, putting a closet in the 9 by 9 ares would be fine. Storage space is always valuable, especially in a bedroom. Make sure none of these areas leak...then design with the assumption they will some day. (Flooring that won't get moldy if a minor puddle forms.) Be sure to insulate.

jeff See the link below - probably the best resource available that provides details on how to build a wine cellar. I am in the process of building one right now - similar situation as you - except that I want to do preserve some of my wines that will be at their peak at 10 to 15 years old. Below is a a description of what I am doing which is based on reading the book and adapting it for my needs and situation. My basement corner is completely below grade and I actually have 3 walls that are cement - like a big nook. - The cement foundation walls currently have fiberglass with silver paper on it. I am taking that down and putting up 1/2 inch XPS foam board to provide a vapor barrier. I wanted to use a thicker foam board but the prices are very high so I went with 4' x 8' x 1/2 inch interlocking board sold by Lowe's. - stud walls along the foundation will be framed with 2x6, cavities filled with R19 insulation. There will be a 2 inch air gap between the stud walls and the XPS. - ceiling joist cavities will first get a 6 mil plastic vapor barrier, then joist cavities will be filled with fibeglass rolls without paper vapor barrier. - the front wall will be a double wall framed with 2x6's. The 6 mil vapor barrier will go on the outside of the wall (the front of the wall on the basement side), stud cavities filled with fiberglass rolls without vapor barrier). - interior walls will be covered with cement board. I plan to use a venetian plaster product to cover the cement board and give the room an old world look. - floor is acid stained. I went this route instead of tiling to lower the cost and I thought it would look better, and it does. - ceiling tiles will be made from bead board and stained/sealed. I plan to make the tiles removable so I can access the ceiling cavitities since I have water pipes up there. I will be making some fake beams with cedar boards to break the ceiling up into rectangular sections that get the beadboard panels. - the door will be an exterior entrance door, probably a fiberglass product that can be stained to look like wood. - I plan on installing a humidifier but no air conditioning system. If all you want is a room in the basement that you happen to place wine in, then you could just put XPS foam board on the cement walls, framing in front of that, and then standard dry wall. Adding the plastic vapor barrier, insulation, and cement board does take a little more time and money but in the grand scheme of things not that much more. Here is a link that might be useful: How to Build a Wine Cellar

Ideal wine storage temp is a constant 55-58 degrees red or white and 60% humidity. I wouldn't worry so much about dual zone as they don't work well and it is something else to break if you want to drink a white wine throw it in the fridge it will be ready to drink in 20 mins. The main things to understand about wine storage is keep the temp constant, remove it from light and vibration. Eurocave is one of the more popular manufactures on many wine boards such as RobertParker.com. They are known for being the quietest on the market. I wouldn't put Riesling in the top 5 or maybe in the top 10 of wines that people buy. The odd bottle you will probably come across is the Syrah, Pinot Noir and some different Regions in France use the same type of bottles they are fatter at the base and mess up everyones storage. Some things to also consider: How many bottles do you have now, are you getting into collecting wine? Good chance your collection will double so buy double the storage for the wine you have now as a rule of thumb. A year ago I thought 12 bottles was a lot now I have over 150.

what is the ambient temperature of the surrounding room? The assumption is that since it's in your basement, your floor above will be in a heated room - do you heat your basement too? Is your basement entirely subterranean or do you have 3 ft windows in it like mine? If you are entirely subterranean, and your ground temp is OK. you may not have to insulate the floor. Remember that it can be a heat sink and insulating it can actually raise the temp of the interior space. If your configuration is like I described, you need most insullation on the ceiling. The vibrations from your dishwasher won't be a problem anyhow - the dishwasher is above and it's hard to imagine how it would shake the floor of the wine cellar. I simply have the same concrete floor as the rest of the basement. My cellar is for storage, so I just wanted it to be functional. It's about the same size as you describe. Vapor barriers can be something to think about. If you have a large difference in temp between your cellar and the surrounding space, you can get condensation. in an unheated basement, the problem is more likely against the ceiling than the walls, but each place is different. Generally you put the vapor barrier against the warm side, but that's not a brilliant idea for a ceiling, especially if your joists and flooring is wood, which is probably the case. I don't understand your question about paint. What is your concern? Also, remember that greenboard doesn't really insulate all that well. I was worried about flooding in the basement even though we've never had any, so I used wonderboard, or cement board, like you would use for a bathroom. I also have six inch walls so I could put a lot of insullation in, and I built my own door which is also six inches. If you use extruded polystyrene, you get the maximum insulation per square inch. Thermax, which has foil on one or both sides, is slightly better but deteriorates over time and there is some literature about toxins, so rather than worry about any of that, I just used polystyrene. I also built my own wine racks. If you use individual racking, you lose a lot of space to air, but that is the most convenient for looking at your bottles. If you use some kind of bin, Rhone shaped bottles and anything that's slightly weird can be a real pain to stack. So I made shelves. A Bordeaux bottle is 3" diameter, a Burgundy bottle is about 3 1/4", but some of the Rhones are a little larger and things like Turley, or Champagne, or some Beaujolais, are even larger. So I made shelves spaced at 3 1/2 inches, with a few at the bottom that are 4" and the top which is about 5" for anything weird. That was the compromise that allowed me to get the maximum bottles with the least amount of lost space. Bins are better but as I said, a pain. I did one wall with bins and probably wouldn't do that again. For cooling, you have a lot of options. You can do a split system. You can get a Whisperkool or Breezeaire or something similar. But remember, those coolers are simply air conditioners. AC units don't go down below 65 or so because they'll ice up. So the compressors are sized slightly differently and the evaporation coils are sized slightly differently than the wine chiller units. If you got your AC to go to 60 or below, you wouldn't have adequate evaporation. So what to do? Get a larger unit. The smallest room AC is about 3000 BTU, or 5000 BTU, which is far more than you need to get that small room cool. If you trick it, you can get it to cool to the 50s or so and you're in good shape. I just bought a $99 Samsung and the temp is around 59 - 62 degrees F. You can pull the thermostat wire thru the grill, which gets you about 5 degrees right there, and you can tape a small resistor to it that gets you another few degrees, and you spent $99 for a cooling system that works fine. I'm not going to get into an engineering description of cooling systems, but people modify big ACs for meat lockers if they're hunters, and it actually works pretty good for a wine cellar. But a spare in case you burn it out and use the savings for more wine.