I have these newly harvested Garlic bulblets and Ornimental allium large purple top flowers. seeds. And my list as well to swap trade for others seeds. Thanks. the Gw put Want insted of I have to offer these for what do you have to trade me for them. let me know. thank you.

Hey Freak, I hear what you are saying. I do cut other plant's cuttings at 45 degrees. However, plumerias are different from other plants. Do you ever wonder why plumerias do not naturally grow roots from the side of the bark? Just about every plant on the planet does that. The reason is because plumerias have no way to attach the new roots to the wood. Plumeria roots grow from callus material that eventually turns into wood and encapsulates the old wood. I said encapsulates because it never attaches to the old wood, you can peel the old wood from the new wood like an onion leaf, just like in the picture below. So, in order to form roots you must stimulate the plant to form the cambium callus. The plant cannot form roots without this cambium callus. Also, the plant will not just form this cambium callus out of the blue. Angle cuts only develop roots at the tip because all the rooting energy goes to the lowest point. Square cuts always fill the whole cambium perimeter with roots, period. That is because the whole cut is the lowest point. This is a 3-year old tree. See, it did not develop roots to fill the perimeter of the cambium line. Once the cambium callus turns into wood it would no develop anymore roots. By the way, by understanding what makes these plants tick I am able to defeat this natural tendency of plumerias and I can make them grow roots at will from the side of the bark. Lots of roots and roots that uptake nutrients like in the picture below. I can quadruple the number of roots on a plumeria (more vigorous plants and better stability). I will show these results in a future PSA article. If you really have any evidence that an angle-cut plumeria develops roots to fill the whole cut please post them. And do not just show me a slight angle that is almost square. Show me a 45 or 30 degree cut develop roots throughout the whole cut. I challenged a lot of people over time to do that. Nobody has posted a single picture. Everybody arm waves and argues theories. If you have one, show me. George

Adele, I'll try to make this quick. Soil: fast draining, well aerated, quick drying. For rooting, 50% perlite or vermiculite and 50% coir (can eventually be replaced with cactus soil - not sure.) For planting, same qualities as above. Search this forum for "gritty mix". Water once when you plant the cuttings and do not water again till you see plenty of roots in your clear plastic bottles. Rooting hormones are not necessary - per se. Can be good, but many people found no difference. Personally, I use Clonex gel every once in a while. Especially on tough to root varieties. You definitely won't have to wait one year to see a leaf. You better not. Ha! Cuttings of decent quality should root in 6-8 weeks, some take longer, but you definitely should see growth. Flowers is a different story. Being in zone 5a myself; I can say that you eventually have to wait longer than two seasons to see blooms, but two seasons is a good time frame - do not expect too much and maybe they will surprise you. As for the rocks in the pots, many people use larger pebbles to weigh down their pots, so they won't get blown over. Additionally, the rocks collect heat over the day and release it over night, which is nice but these rocks can get pretty hot too and burn the base of your cuttings. I'd be careful. My plumeria go outside when night time lows are above 45F, usually around late April/May. They are out till the end of Sept./sometimes well into October. I watch for the same night time lows there. They should get as much sun as possible. Hope this clears some of your questions. Happy rooting and growing!

If you have a heat mat I would go ahead and start them. soil temperature is a key component of starting a cutting.