My Container Trees
Nick (9b) Modesto Area
8 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Phuong
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoEva Joo
3 years agoRelated Discussions
how big will my container citrus trees get?
Comments (4)Hmmm Hi Jeff n Jessa, I have a bunch of dwarf citrus in containers and I am wondering the same thing. Mine have only been in for about a year, so they are still sort of bush like. Except for a Standard Wekiwa tangelo which is about 5 feet high and doesn't appear to have max'd out growing tall. May have to prune it. Anyone know a good rule of thumb? Dwarf size in a container? Standard size in a container? To answer your question #2, you will probably lose some of the orange fruits. 2% of the fruit only last till ripening is what I have heard. My orange container trees (18" across) lose a bunch but keep a bunch also. It is quite sad when you see all of the small round fruits falling off.... Here is a link where you can see my container citrus. Remember, 2-3 year old trees in my containers for only about a year... Citrusboy aka Marc Here is a link that might be useful: Container Citrus...See MoreCaring for IN GROUND Citrus
Comments (22)Hi guys, I wanted to pass along an e-mail response I just received from Dr. Toni Siebert on the question of whether there were any negatives we should consider to planting citrus too deeply. Dr. Siebert works with Dr. Tracy Kahn at what is arguably the premier citrus research center in the world (the Citrus Experiment Station at UC Riverside). The institution has been planting trees since the early 1900s. Here is Dr. Siebert's reply: Hi Tim, In our experience, planting citrus trees too deeply in which the soil and any moisture covering any portion of the trunk is a disadvantage. Exposing the trunk to constant moisture by planting the tree too deep causing water ponding or waterlogging of roots, has been known to be associated with the invasion of root tissue by wood rotting organisms, usually Phytophthora or Fusarium fungi. The general rule when we plant our citrus trees is to only plant the tree to a depth at which the tree can set evenly with the soil line, so the depth depends on the size of the pot the tree is being grown in. In our citrus classes, the planting instruction that are given to students are as follows: "1. Dig a hole that is 2-3 times as wide as the diameter of the container holding the tree. While the tree is in the container, find the area where the stem merges with its root system. Measure from this area to the bottom of the container. Dig the hole as deep as the measurement. Save the soil from the hole to use as backfill. If the hole is deeper than the measurement, prior to placing the tree in the hole, backfill with enough soil to hold the tree slightly higher than the measurement. Firmly press the soil before setting the tree on it. 2. Position the tree. Carefully remove the tree from the container, supporting the rootball. Place the tree in the hole and center it. Check the hole depth. It is most important to plant at the same height or slightly above the height of the soil level in the nursery container. Cut any circled or kinked roots. Loose roots should be positioned facing down in the hole. 3. Fill the hole. Remove any rocks, grass or debris from the dug-up soil. Break up clods. Add backfill soil, firming it around the lower roots by hand. Continue filling and firming 4-6 inches at a time. Press gently with the top end of the shovel handle. Soil should be firmly, but not tightly packed. Create a basin to hold water that is just a little larger than the rootball. Build and compact the edge of the circular basin to a height of 6 inches. Pull out all weeds in the basin. 4. Water After the tree is planted, fill the basin with water. Check the original soil line one last time. If the tree does settle, now is the time to move it back to the correct position with soil level against trunk at the same level that it was in the container." Best, Toni Siebert toni.siebert@ucr.edu Although there are root stocks that are more resistant to Phytophthora (e.g. Trifoliate orange) rendering this possibly as less of an issue, there is evidently no cure for Fusarium fungi. Therefore, I would still practice caution by heeding the above planting guidelines of these researchers. jkom, I do have a question for you. Since I recall you mentioning that one of your Meyer trees was actually derived from the seed of a fallen neighbor's fruit that had successfully germinated, I'm wondering if you've ever seen the trunk/root crown interface exposed? I ask this since I'm curious what is the natural exposure of a citrus (in this case a Meyer) tree's roots when it grows unaided by humans. If you currently do not see the upper adventitious roots, since you're in the Oakland hills, could erosion have buried the trunk over the years? Cheers, Tim...See MoreHow to properly care for my trees
Comments (19)Luey, be VERY careful with insecticidal soap right now. It's just too hot in your area to use it, you'll fry the leaves right off, now. Temps need to be below 85 degrees to use it. If you will get your citrus healthy and thriving, the chances of pests attacking your citrus are drastically reduced. The only pests I deal with are snails/slugs and Citrus Leaf Miner. I don't need to do anything but put down Sluggo in the winter and spring/early summer, and then spray for CLM in July. Let's get more water to stay in the root zone for your citrus right now. Once they recover, you can fertilize. If you fertilize in the state they're in right now (stressed), you can burn the roots. It's water and shade right now. You may need to amend the holes, top with LOTS of compost (6" I would guess or more), top with 2 or 3 more inches of mulch, keeping the mulch and compost away from the trunks. Definitely talk with your Master Gardeners or see about going to a class or seminar about citrus and fruit tree growing in your area. You have some very unique needs, but for sure it can be done. Patty S....See MoreWhy won't my container citrus tree bloom?
Comments (11)Thanks, Mike. I hope I'm posting this right. I have no idea if he might be a cutting. I dug around a little at the base and I don't see an obvious graft, but just because I don't recognize it doesn't mean it didn't happen! I've been top dressing every so often with composted manure and plain old compost and a little worm casting tea a couple of times. He dropped his leaves once about a year ago because he was too wet, and that was when I repotted him in the citrus mix. He came back fast after that. In the summer (we're zone 5) he sits on a SW corner of the patio that is sunny all day. I acclimate him to that location, of course. In the winter, he has a west facing window right next to him and a south facing window a few feet away. I haven't been giving him extra light, but maybe I should. I have a container fig that will join him inside this year, so it's probably time to think about more light. Our indoor temps are right around 68, but he's in a window, so probably cooler....See Morethe fishman
3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agothe fishman
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agothe fishman
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agothe fishman
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agothe fishman
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
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3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agoAmy (8b/9a) SE TX
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoDavid Wan
3 years agoEva Joo
3 years agoNick (9b) Modesto Area
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agoPhuong Vong
3 years agoEva Joo
3 years agoDavid Wan
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Nick (9b) Modesto AreaOriginal Author