Growing Pawpaw trees in northern New jersey
Yuri Perez-Malko
8 years ago
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Yuri Perez
7 years agowoodnative
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Evergreen Shrub Identification In Northern New Jersey (USA)
Comments (8)Northern NJ is (now) zone 7, I think. We generally get down to 0 at least once or twice a winter and spend a couple months with at least part of the day below freezing. I don't think Bay would survive outside here. Parts of Long Island are a little milder, I guess. Cherry Laurel does OK here, I think. Although it's not real common. Laurel is one of those old names that get applied to just about anything with evergreen leaves - I just looked in Hortus out of curiosity and 'Laurel' is part of the common name of something like 35 different plants. WW...See Moregrowing citrus in southern new jersey?
Comments (18)Hi, first post on Gardenweb... TL;DR summary: You can absolutely grow outdoor in ground citrus in southern NJ, or almost any other part of the USA, even upstate MI. It just depends on how much effort you want to invest. Here's my full 2 cents: Citrus are quite content being dormant for several months of the year. They can tolerate prolonged periods (several days) at or slightly below freezing and short periods of a few hours (depending on the variety) down into the teens without much damage except for possible defoliation. The key is that the tree is healthy and fully dormant, active growing trees are much more sensitive to cold. One alternate approach to outdoor growing (as detailed by Poncirusguy) is to bring containerized citrus indoors for winter. Doing this you can either keep them growing actively (not dormant) by supplying sufficient heat and warmth. Or if you have a cool spot inside (temps in the 50's, for example) that receives filtered (not direct) sun you can overwinter them indoors in their dormant state. For outdoor growing, you also need to consider the fruit. In general the fruit will be damaged by temps below ~28F for more than a few hours. So you can either make sure to protect the trees so temps do not get that low or select varieties, such as early Satsumas, that are able to ripen their fruit before cold weather sets in. Depending on the degree of protection, you could grow pretty much any variety of citrus in ground. Alternatively, in zone 7B you should be able to grow some of the more hardy Poncirus hybrids in ground with minimal or possibly no winter protection. But, depending on your personal taste preferences, you may (or may not) like the fruit you get from the Poncirus hybrids. I know someone who has been growing Satsumas, Kumquats, Meyer Lemons, and some other Poncirus hybrids in ground in zone 5B for several years. Some of his trees are 6+ ft tall and many produce fruit. He uses extensive winter protection and supplemental winter heating. I have seen one of his Kumquats with well over 50 ripening fruit that he overwintered! Personally, I have one Satsuma in ground in my yard (zone 6B Massachusetts) and have overwintered it without using any supplemental heat. Instead I used several water barrels (taking advantage of the large heat capacity of water) to protect my tree. My tree saw a low temp of ~28F this past winter (the outside low temp was ~4F). During one stretch, the outside air temp did not get above freezing for 8-9 continuous days. Here are some pictures that might be helpful. Satsuma last Fall: Bundled up for winter (Early November). The tree is surrounded by 6-7 filled 35 gal water barrels wrapped in plastic sheeting to keep the wind out and is topped with an old full glass patio door for a roof. There are many different setups for protection that would also work... you just need to experiment a little and find what works best for your specific area. After 25" of snow in late Janurary: Uncovered this spring: ...and putting on new growth: Whether you choose outdoor (in ground), indoor active, or indoor dormant overwintering is really your personal preference. All methods will likely require some level of trial and error to determine what works best for you. Personally, I have found that maintaining my outdoor tree during the winter was much less work than my indoor trees. Once I set-up the enclosure, I just left the outdoor tree on it's own all winter. (In full disclosure, I did keep an eye on the interior air and soil temps with some remote temp probes and had an emergency heat source that was set to turn on automatically if the interior temp went below 27F) In contrast, my indoor citrus require frequent checks to see if they need water and I typically need to spray them with Horticultural oil a couple times during the winter to keep the insects (scale, white flies, mealy bugs, red citrus mites, etc...) in check. Cheers, Scott...See More6 ft tall Hass Avocado from "Fast Growing Trees" in Northern CA 9b
Comments (15)cori...perhaps my info from "fast growing tree" was a different seller...there are lots of sites with that name on the web. Don't get me wrong...Hass is a good avocado. I have 3 of them. They have derived from Guatemala not Mexico. Therefor, they are more tender than Mexicans. I am not sure about your area getting only down to the 40's or 50's in winter (9b). You need to be concerned about your 4 or 5 coldest nights of the year. That is where the danger lies. Lights in the tree does help a bit, and throwing a tarp over small trees helps even more. I know nothing about the quality/price of their trees...so I can not comment on that. If you have good experience with them....I am sure they are honest. You can sure give it a shot. Here is a good place to fine info (University of Calif)...they are not trying to sell you anything. haha Ed of Somis http://ceventura.ucanr.edu/Gardening/Garden_Info/avocado_questions/...See MoreInterested in learning how to grow figs in New Jersey.
Comments (11)Harish, Temps above 40 degrees F. will cause the figs to break dormancy. At 50-55 degrees F. the dormant buds will begin swelling and growth will start. You don't want this to happen. You only want dormancy to stop when it is warm enough outside for them to commence active growth outside. Your unheated greenhouse seems to be the best option. You could, if the light in it is good, give the figs an early start for the growing season, and then put them outside when all frosts are past. You will in this way, get an earlier ripe crop, every container fig gardener's dream.....all figs ripening before the first fall frosts. Once the figs have broken dormancy they need full sun and no lows below freezing. Figs are very sensitive to frost. Mission is my favorite so far. Your two Missions (lucky you!), LSU Purple, and Olympian are great choices. I also have the three you have, and 17 other different varieties. I am experimenting to see: the tastiest, most prolific, easy to grow, etc. It will take a number of years....that's the fun of it. I have about 70 figs (14 figs last year), on my Mission right now. It is in its 4th. year, 2017. It was a 6" rooted cutting its first year, 2014. Lots of branches and only 2.5' tall right now. Still a very young tree, being kept short and stout purposely. Unfortunately, it has Fig Mosaic Virus, came with it, but is growing strong and vigorously. Avoid virused figs. They can do very well, but better not to have any, if at all possible. I do tip pruning when spring shoots are at the 6-7 leaf stage. This hastens fig formation to insure early ripening. Pinch the tip when the 6th to 7th. leaf is about 1/3 its fully extended length. Wait until it gets to that size. Go by the fully extended older, lower leaves on that stem for size comparison. This gives bigger figs over against pinching the tip earlier in its development when the new growing tip leaves are tiny. This is a new growing hint I learned this year. You're always learning. Figs need plenty of sunshine, heat, and water. No tip pinching past 4th. Of July. Any figs that start developing on stems after 4th. Of July, will not ripen in time. It takes 90-120 days for a fig to fully ripen from when it just starts to form at the size of a mustard seed at the base of a leaf. Late developers are just wasted figs and wasted energy. You want to see all your baby fruits, figlets, start developing at leaf bases before and up to The 4th. Of July. Give Celeste, Conadria, LSU Gold, and little Miss Figgy a try. They are precocious fruiters. Experiment with as many different varieties that you can handle. That's the only way you can find out what is best for you. Fertilizer needs are simple. May I recommend the Miracle Grow Shake n' Feed 3 month pellets for Roses and Blooms (new formula with microbes and worm castings), 10-18-9. Put it down once in April, then again in July. The N-P-K ratio is ideal for figs even though the label says for roses and blooms. Apply 4 oz. of non-burning lime every spring per 10 gallon fig, sprinkled on soil, watered in. You can add Azomite dust, I do. I highly recommend it. It is full of trace minerals which maximize tree performance and fruit flavor. One rounded Tbl. per fig tree with each three month miracle grow feeding. Just sprinkle on top of soil. Good, fast draining potting soil. Do not use the moisture retentive, polymer additive potting mixes. They can be root rotters, killer soil! Wide pots are critical for stability when the wind blows. You don't want your trees being knocked over with trunks/branches snapping off in strong winds. Lash fig trees to each other with rope and broom sticks to prevent wind tippling them over if that's a problem. The black plastic nursery pots work best, IMHO. Cheap, sturdy, stable. Stick to no more than 10 gal. size. Your back will thank you. Root pruning and branch pruning are the name of the game with figs. They take root pruning and top pruning in stride.....like no other plants I know. Keep them short (4-5' max.), and wide, for easy of handling and stability. Multiple trunks are better than single. Keep branching low and compact, but not crowded....keeps center of gravity low so the tree does not topple over easily. I cannot emphasize how disheartening it is to have a tall potted fig get knocked over in a strong wind and snap in half. Fig leaves are big and act like sails in the wind, catching the wind easily. You can, in New Jersey, keep a fig that gets 20' tall in the ground in South Texas, grow 4-5' tall with good pruning, and be very productive and happy in a 10 gal. pot. So long for now. Moses...See Morewoodnative
7 years agoJohn Britton
7 years agoshp123
7 years agosteve_nj
7 years agoYuri Perez-Malko
6 years agowoodnative
6 years agoYuri Perez
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agowoodnative
2 years agoYuri Perez
2 years agowoodnative
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoBobby Burke
21 days agosteve_nj
21 days agoYuri Perez
21 days ago
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