Any Cedar City locals?
kimba217
16 years ago
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pawsitive_gw
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoangiez
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
apple vs cedar tree...any hope?
Comments (26)You will almost certainly have to spray for a lot more than CAR to get sound fruit in Tennessee. There are a rather formidable complex of fruit destroying pests in that particular neck of the woods. Here's what I have to do in NY to get useable fruit. Alan Haigh- The Home Orchard and Nursery Co. alandhaigh@gmail.com REPRINT PERMISSION FROM ALAN HAIGH REQUIRED ________________________________________ Low Spray Schedule for Home Orchards in the Northeast Here's my spray schedule for the scores of orchards I manage around SE NY adapted for home owners managing a few fruit trees. It has functioned well for me for over 2 decades, although J. Beetles and brown rot of stone fruit increases the number of sprays and necessary pesticides some years some sites. Stink bugs are also an increasing problem requiring more subsequent sprays when they appear. Time of spray is based on apple bloom as that is the predominant fruit here but I generally get away with spraying all trees at the time I spray apples. Please note that pesticide labels must be read before their use and my recommendations do not override the rules on the label. The label is the law. This document only communicates what has worked for me and your results may vary depending on local pest pressure, which may require a different spray schedule. Dormant oil (this is optional if there were no mites or scale issues the previous season, which is usually the case in home orchards). Do oil spray somewhere between the point where emerging shoots are 1/2" and the flower clusters begin to show a lot of pink. Mix Immunox (myclobutinol) at highest legal rate (listed on label for controlling scab and cedar apple rust on apple trees) with 1 to 2% oil. If it's closer to pink use 1%. Don't spray again until petal fall when petals have mostly gone from latest flowering varieties and bees have lost interest. Then spray Triazide (Spectracide Once and Done) + Immunox mixed together at highest legal rates. Repeat once in 10 to 14 days. Where I manage orchards, the space between earliest flowering Japanese plums and latest flowering apples is only 2 weeks or so which usually allows me to wait until the latest flowering trees are ready to begin spraying anything. Plum curculio seems to time its appearance conveniently to the rhythm of the last flowering apple varieties. This may not be true where you are. If plums or peaches need oil they may need application before apples. I’ve only had mites on European plums here and never need oil for other stone fruit. All this is based on plum curculio being your primary insect problem which is the case most areas east of the Mis. River. These sprays will also absolutely control scab, CAR and Mildew as well as most of the crop fatal insects. Apple fly maggot is an exception as it tends to merge a couple of weeks after last spray looses affectiveness, but I haven't had much of a problem with this pest in the orchards I manage. This pest can be controlled with a lot of fake apples smeared with tangle trap. If you don't want to use synthetic chemicals try 4 applications of Surround about a week apart starting at petal fall. You may need to start on earlier flowering varieties as soon as they drop petals because Surround is a repellent and can’t kill eggs after they’ve been inserted into the fruit.. Stone fruit may require the addition of an application or 2 of Indar (Monterey Fungus Fighter is closest available chemical for home growers) starting 4 weeks before first peaches ripen. Apricots must be sprayed sooner if they are scab susceptible with same compound. Some sites that single spray will also prevent serious rot on later ripening varieties on seasons not particularly wet. Because I manage so many orchards so far apart I have to resort to a spray schedule that is based on expectations rather than actual monitoring. You may be able to reduce insecticide sprays with monitoring but PC can enter an orchard over night and if your insecticide lacks kick-back (as is the case with Triazide), do a lot of damage in a couple of days.. Other problems may occur later in the season and you will in time learn to monitor and react to the pitfalls....See MoreAny orchid nurseries in the Miramar Beach and Panama City areas?
Comments (3)Sheila, there is a small orchid nursery in Milton, FL -- which is just to the east of Pensacola. If your friend wants to travel a bit, I can e-mail you the name and phone number to make an appointment. The plants are very nice. Mostly, they sold their plants at shows throughout the Southeast, but now are closing down....See MoreLocally grown plant sale offerings - do I need any of these?
Comments (11)I grow Celine Forestier and I'm in zone 5. I had a couple gallicas/damasks/albas etc but really wanted to try one of the warmer weather roses. This is the one I chose. I didn't think a tea rose would make it but I thought I could try a noisette. I DO winter protect, I make a little mound of cedar mulch at the base every winter, not too huge of a pile though. She survives just fine. There is cane damage and winter dieback, and she'll generally die back to a little bit above the mulch line, but grows back quite vigorously. She makes a small bush every summer, about 4 ft tall probably and fairly upright. She's right inside my gate, and blooms with enough quantity and vigor to look really nice there. I love the colour. She certainly needs the bit of winter protection to survive but I don't go crazy and she gets through our Canadian winters without pouting too much. I think now she's used to winter - she's a tough gal! I also have Belle de Crecy. I'd say that this one is a must-have mostly because of the colour. Mine has a really nice bush shape, it is more wide than tall, and no problems with winter of course but it is mainly the colour......See MoreEver use your local CITY's Compost?
Comments (20)Are your leaves mixed with stuff before they get to the dump? Here's the setup where I live (Actually it's not where I live---it's a nearby town that I learned had a nice composting setup.): Homeowners take their own yard waste to the site, then I go and bring it back to my place to make compost. For years I only took leaves and pumpkins, fearing chemical treatments, but eventually the bags of steaming grass clippings got to me, and I started bringing them home, too. I try to avoid the greenest, lushest clippings, assuming they are more likely to have been chemically managed. Primarily, I've decided not to think about it. Behind the mountain of yard waste is the prior season's yard waste, now composted. I rarely take that, preferring to see the ingredients that go into my compost. I did, however, have the local extension service test the finished compost for lead, and I can't remember what else they tested, and the results regarding that were reassuring. My biggest concern is pesticide residue on the grass clippings. My second biggest concern is bring home diseased leaves (many of which do not get composted at all; I use them intact as mulch on lawn areas) that might pass something onto the trees in the woods around me. I brought home blighted maple leaves last year, then ended up contacting a man from the university regarding my concerns. He said, in that instance---maple trees---the blight was so widespread I shouldn't worry about it. Plus the disease was not fatal to maples. If you have the option of visiting the drop-off place for your town, you might check it out. So far this year, I've gotten leaves, grass clippings mixed with chipped leaves, tons of apples, NOT ONE PUMPKIN YET; I blame mctoon, tons of dahlia bulbs, hydrangea blossoms, and the best score yet---a pile of dirty, blemished, black-spotted pears lying in tire tracks filled with oily compost leachate seeping from the pile. I gathered up the filthy pears and took them home for my chickens. My dog fought the chickens for the pears, and after seeing the especially pleased look on her face, I began to wonder just how good those pears were. I ended up taking the greasy pears into the house, washing them, peeling them, offering them to my mother (with full disclosure) and having one myself. One of the most delicious pears I've ever had in my life! I ended up going back out to the yard and taking back the best looking ones from the chickens. I am very tempted to write to the editorial page of the Bangor Daily News asking "who the heck are you that keeps putting those DeLiCious pears in the Brewer dump, for pete's sake? Are you totally mad?"...See Moredee333
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agopsittacine
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agogingerflower
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agopsittacine
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agogingerflower
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agopsittacine
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agodogluver34
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoCarolynn Davis
2 years ago
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