Debbie, IME, I wouldn't do any transplanting of trees or shrubs unless it's early spring like April/May. Transplanting at this time may cause it to stress right out and die, that's the chance you take. However, if you're willing to baby it carefully each and every day, it may make it. As well, I'm not sure about only 4 hours of sun, I have mine on the west side of the house, it gets direct sun from about 12 noon on. My Lois Holes Favorite T&S book says that it likes the SUN. Sharon

june isnt the best time for planting conifers ... minutes before the heat of summer ... but based on that planting.. its all related to transplant shock ... i wouldnt be thinking disease ... but it sounds like you did great with watering ... half mulch.. half rock ... better than a sharp stick in the eye .. i am wondering if that wall retains heat in winter... S or SW facing??? .. did you protect it from direct sun for a week or so.. after planting??? where does the prevailing winter wind come from ... also in regard to that wall ... is it protected by the wall ... or does the wall funnel right past a plant in winter sun ... you are the second to mention winter watering ... its a very foreign concept to me.. i dont do that.. where the ground freezes solid ... and i am wondering.. how much water.. a dormant tree needs ..????? does you ground freeze solid in your z5???? .. if so.. you should not have been watering .... boy.. if i guessed.. i wouldnt have guessed that was a mugo ... but then.. i am not into the science of IDing ... you need a seller with a better reputation ... mail order from such ... ask for the manager ... and see if you get the same nonsense .... this was exactly why you got a warranty .... i would give it another month .. to see if the buds are alive ... then make a decision ... its planted rather close to the house.. for its potential ... those leaders grew what looks... 6 to 8 inches last year ...laterals.. maybe 6 ... inside 5 years.. it will be on the house ... a replacemtn should go at least 3 to 5 feet further away or you need a plant with less potential ... do understand.. whether a plant is called a dwarf or a mini ... its all about the annual growth rate .. all size estimates are at ten years.. in the conifer world.. and at 20 .. you can presume it will be twice as big ... by looking for how much it grew last year... you can generate an annual growth rate .. and do your own multiplication .. if you want to search out mail order plants.. i have had a lot of luck with conifer kingdom ... call them.. and describe your spot.. if you get overwhelmed with the website ... unless you bare rooted the plant ... you do not know if it was root bound ... back two or 3 pot sizes ago ... did you amend your planting hole.. in your clay?? you have to at least wait.. until the local pines bud out.. before you will know much of anything ... here in my z5 MI ... that is weeks from now ... ken

While it was in the pot, before planting, it was in 6 hrs of sun and checked daily to see if it was dry and needed water. In the ground, full sun, I checked for water needs every 2 days. I’m putting in a new garden area of dwarf conifers and Japanese acers so had a number of new plants to monitor. The delay in planting was waiting on a landscape company that was to put in 3 larger trees after we lost 5 trees in an ice storm in February. I’ll just say there were issues. The Carsten’s Is in a pot now in bright shade and I check it daily. Wintergold is yellow only in winter like Chief Joseph and some other pines, I believe. It had a gold tinge to it when I got it. I’ll include a photo from 4/18/21 when I brought it home. Stress makes perfect sense. The plant does look better today with new growth shooting up. I’ll keep it in the pot, in bright shade, until fall and check it daily (2” into the soil) to see if it needs more water. Thank you for all your help.

water by hand.. until YOU LEARN how to water thru the entire root mass planted .. and then let near dry before deeply watering again.. this is why trees on drip doesnt work at transplanting ... next time.. do not amend the planting hole ... review this primer to see if there are other thing to do.. or not do.. https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub ALL evergreen plants lose their leaves/needles ..... its annual and cyclical ... pines do it every year .. the oldest interior leaves.. part of what you are seeing is that process ... note it is NOT new growth .. its last years.. or the previous years needles ... this is increased because of the shipping to your house... then the transplanting.. and then wildly increased by lack of sufficient water .. [how did you come up with 5 to 7 mins?? .. in my sand.. to water down 12 inches.. might take a couple hours ... and that is why i watered by hand.. and not my drip system.. even if the trees were in a bed with flower plants] the future is all in those buds .. the plant could basically denude itself.. and still survive.. if those buds open ... as long as the buds dont go floppy.. they should expand and you should be on your way.. for now.. take a hand trowel.. and dig a few 6 to 8 inch holes around the gob planted.. AND FIND OUT IF THERE IS ANY WATER AT ROOT DEPTH... and then act accordingly ... ken