How To Propagate?
bud_wi
17 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (42)
walyn14
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agocalpat
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
how to propagate aeonium undulatum
Comments (3)The best time to root aeoniums is in early fall--September is the earliest time to start. Undulatum only makes new shoots from the base. The stems with rosette grow a few feet tall and eventually flower. Then the entire stem dies back to the ground. The plant continues from the suckers that have come up. If no suckers then the plant dies out. Cutting a rosette will work and should force the stem to make offsets. Let the cutting sit in bright shade for a few weeks and then plant in sand or potting mix. This species resents hot sun, so keep it out of hot afternoon sun. If a stem blooms, you can easily grow it from seed--let the inflorescence fully dry and then crush the flower heads and scatter on the soil of other potted outdoor plants. The best time to scatter seed is fall. August is a good time as the seed will only need to wait a few months for cool weather and more soil moisture for germination. Jon in SF Bay Area...See MoreHow to propagate Euphorbia mammilaris variegata - Indian Corncob?
Comments (11)I would think that your non-variegated one would have the same name, just minus the "variegata" at the end most likely. I still haven't found any species-specific information on the net/web for rooting this one, but after reading a page (that I will paste below along with the url to it, since it has photos), I'm going to take a good look at my plant and see if I feel safe to take 3 or more cuttings from it to try rooting in different ways. The article does cite some specific species, but unless I overlooked it, mammilaris isn't one of them. You might find this info of use though - I know it does talk a bit about Medusa's Head - and I've got cuttings rooted of that one, so this additional info was nice to tuck away in my memory banks (and of course will get saved into a text file as well :) copied info from: http://www.euphorbia-international.org/Cultivation/propagation.htm Vegetative Propagation Propagation of euphorbias from cuttings is the easiest and quickest method for many species, and is also a way to prune an old plant back into shape. Cuttings should be taken with a sharp clean knife, if possible laying the plant down on a clean and smooth surface and using a pulling, rather than pressing motion to obtain a clean and clear cut. Branching species should be cut if possible at the branching point. Solitary plants such as E. bupleurifolia or E. piscidermis can be decapitated to encourage production of side shoots which can later be removed and rooted. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring when growth starts, but summer is also suitable. Cuttings taken in autumn or winter have little time to root, and so cuttings should only be taken as an emergency to rescue plants suffering from root rot. The latex appearing after cutting must be completely washed away in a glass of water or by spraying. Cold water stems the flow quickly as does brief exposure to a candle flame or match. Euphorbias with large leaves should have leaves just above the cut removed with a knife. The cut surface should be left to dry before planting, one or better several days for leafless species. Leafy Madagascan species need only dry a short time. Dusting the cut surface with a hormone rooting powder will help roots form. For euphorbias we recommend 0.1% naphthyl acetic acid and not indolyl acetic acid which is usually found in shops. The planting medium can be the same as for seed sowing with the addition of some sterilised drainage material. Rooting can take longer than expected but is accelerated by raising the soil temperature to around 25 C using a thermostatically controlled warming mat. Direct sun should be avoided. If unrooted cuttings dehydrate, they can sometimes be saved by soaking in water at room temperature until then swell up again and can be replanted. Rooting cuttings Euphorbia greenwayi var. greenwayi Euphorbia myrioclada Euphorbia similiramea A fast rooting method, which does not suit all species, is to stand cuttings in a narrow glass and fill up to 2-3 cm with water. Rooting can occur in 10-14 days. Some euphorbias that can be rooted from side shoots continue to grow as branches and do not form the typical plant form. The medusa-head species are in this group as well as E. brevitorta, E. groenewaldii, E. tortirama and others. For these the so-called two-step cutting method is required. First a cutting is taken in the normal way. When this has rooted, a second cut is made just above the point where roots have formed and the cut is treated in the normal way. The tip can be re-rooted and when large enough can be cut again. The rooted stump will normally produce a plant of form typical to the species and this can then be removed when large enough from the mother cutting. Some Madagascan euphorbias (E. francoisii, E. cylindrifolia, E. pachypodioides, E. ankarensis, E. millotii) have been successfully propagated from leaf cuttings. Leaves are gently pulled from the plants (not cut) and put into cubes of rock wool which are then placed on coarse sand in a tray. The surface of the sand should be covered with water (putting the leaves directly into damp sand also works, although with greater losses). Hormone rooting powder and fungicide assist the process. Both gentle heat or a cool position with a plastic cover to increase humidity, should produce the desired result. After 40 days the plants are sufficiently well developed to be potted. Leaves of E. decaryi, E. primulifolia, E. moratii, E. cremersii and E. decidua will produce roots but do not develop plants. They remain as rooted leaves. Finally a few words on the toxicity of the latex. Even small amounts can cause painful skin irritation. If you get it on the skin, it should immediately be washed off thoroughly under running water. On no account let the latex come into contact with the eyes or mucous membranes....See MoreHow to propagate Michelia Champaca, and Alba from seeds?
Comments (8)M. alba I believe is normally propagated by grafting (onto M. champaca I think). Don't know whether this is due to the difficulty of propagating from seed or growing from cuttings, or whether the alba doesn't come true from seed. Possibly all of the above. M. champaca is grown on its own rootstock and is not too difficult to grow from seed, provided the seed is fresh enough and the temperature is warm enough. I tried numerous times to grow it from ebay-bought seed but had always sowed them in spring or early summer, when nights can still occasionally be fresh. (I don't have a heat mat.) It was only when I sowed seed in mid-summer, when night temperatures hover around 20-20 deg C (about 70 deg F) that they germinated. So they need 24-hour warmth (ie no cool nights), and humidity (I misted them with water and covered with plastic) to germinate. I believe that the champaca DOES come true from seed. Unless, perhaps, there are other species of michelia in the vicinity with which it has hybridised ......See MoreIs this wild onion and how to propagate?
Comments (21)Well even purely out of self-interest, I think it would be easier and more efficient to simply harvest and plant some of the aerial bulbils near earlyfig200329's house. This requires far less effort than digging up and transplanting the entire plants, while also allowing them to keep colonizing the area they are in now. The end result would be that he would end up with twice (or more or less) as many wild onions on his entire property (and as many as he wants right by his house) with maybe just 1/5 of the effort... It's a win-win-win! I mean, all those bulbils are already right there just ripe for the picking and planting. It really doesn't get any easier than that! B) I myself planted some wild onion bulbils recently as well. Easy peasy!...See Morebud_wi
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agobuyorsell888
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agodirt_dew
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agobuyorsell888
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agospiderplant
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agodirt_dew
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agonaturelover_mtl
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agobud_wi
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agobilln119
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agonaturelover_mtl
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agobud_wi
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agobud_wi
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agoamynah
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agomargaretm
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agobud_wi
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agoKayzar
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agoeileen_plants
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agosnow_lake_yahoo_com
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoedleigh7
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agobud_wi
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agonighthawk2003
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agothyme_keeper
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoninjatails
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agoindoorn00b
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoevonnestoryteller
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoindoorn00b
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoevonnestoryteller
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agok4n4di4n_gmail_com
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agodeception7777_hotmail_com
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agodolly_canfield_yahoo_com
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agokennypt123
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoknotsolucky
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agomcgyvr2009i
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agodandeelion91
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agodandeelion91
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoCJAmber
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLinda Rockhold
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoSown Seed
5 years ago
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Hibiscus Moscheutos
Crimsoneyed rosemallow is an ideal flowering perennial for wet sites and is ready to propagate now
Full StoryFLOWERSPaint a Garden Delightful With Iris
Charming and colorful, irises propagate easily, are hardy in many soils and climates, and unfold with layers of beauty
Full StoryWINTER GARDENINGExtend Your Growing Season With a Cold Frame in the Garden
If the sun's shining, it might be time to sow seeds under glass to transplant or harvest
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESA Beginner’s Guide to Growing Succulents
Their easy-care reputation is well-deserved, but a little TLC will turn succulents into star plants
Full StoryRED FOLIAGEGreat Design Plant: Japanese Blood Grass
This dramatic, ruby-tinged grass bridges the gap between red and green, short and tall plants
Full StoryHOUSEPLANTSCascading Succulents Bring Fun Shapes to Your Indoor Garden
For eye-catching spillers with delicate beauty and minimal needs, it's hard to beat these 2 trailing houseplants
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Cannas
Easy to grow and maintain, these showy, colorful plants are perfect for beginning gardeners
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNTry Slow Gardening for Some Unexpected Benefits
Why set your garden on the fast track? Here's how to relax and enjoy it in an entirely new way
Full StoryMORE ROOMSOn Trend: Smart Solutions for Cords
Show those cables and wires who's boss with these clever solutions for the home office
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Slipper Plant
Unthirsty succulent looks great all year and offers an unexpected surprise in fall
Full StorySponsored
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7