Just to set the record straight... and this is the most current understanding of the wood chip issue - according to my, and other people's extensive research into reliable sources... Without going into extensive detail, keep in mind that fresh wood chips are extremely heavy in 'bound' carbon. They also contain high amounts of lignin. These substances do not breakdown without lots of fungal, and biologic activity. To support that decomposition process, the organisms involved need other nutrients to thrive. Chief among their needs is nitrogen. During the time that the fresh chips are decomposing (many factors are involved in the speed and effectiveness of that degradation process,) any N in close proximity to the wood is quickly put to use by the organisms feeding on it. Up to a point, any N added to the situation will help those natural decomposers reproduce and thrive. They will use the N in their life cycle and reproduction. As the wood decomposes (rots,) and the food source for those lifeforms begins to diminish, their numbers will decline. As they die off (and also get eaten) and they too decompose, the N is slowly made available again to any other life that may wish to make use of it in whatever process follows. So, in the case of gardening, fresh chips are flush with carbon. Fungi, and other soil life make use of that carbon and they need nitrogen. The N becomes temporarily tied up until the carbon is chemically redistributed into the environment. The N is then also slowly released back into the environment. This is extremely simplistic (there are also some very rot-resistant chemicals in wood - such as lignin - as well as other minerals and molecular structures,) but you get the idea. The further along the decomposition process is, the less the material can act as a host to the organisms which feed on the fresh wood. Eventually, the organic matter in wood chips is broken down into its chemical and mineral constituents forming new chemicals and continuing the process of carbon-based life. As mentioned - also generally speaking - the smaller the size, the faster this process completes. Another factor... if the wood is on the surface of the ground, the reduction of available N is limited to that close proximity. The deeper the wood is immersed into the soil, the more extensive the N is 'tied up' in that area. Think 5mm to 10 mm away from any surface area. So if wood chips are dispersed throughout that soil, the less N will be available to any growing plants until that wood reaches the apex of the decomposition cycle. You'll notice that many bagged 'soil' brands use 'partially decomposed forest products' as their main ingredient. What does this mean? That they are composting wood chips (and other constituents - such as shavings, bark, and saw dust) for a time, before adding it as an ingredient to their mix. It's not a 'bad' thing to do at all. It's just that knowing what it is, and the process it undergoes, helps the gardener make good decisions on amendment choices.

boy my answer above sucked.. lol ... winter damage is not just about sun ... it is also about winter winds ... and temp fluctuations ... in mid winter.. a plant .. in your clime should be dormant.. get it dormant.. and keep it dormant ... the problem with evergreen type plants ... is that you get these sunny comparatively warm days.. and the leaves can that ... and then they refreeze at night ... plus the drying effects of winter winds ... and you have a recipe for freeze dried evergreen leaves ... in a sense ... with the multiple variables ... the choice of stock might not matter ... your best shot.. would be to try to find stock that is 2 or 3 zones colder than your zone .... which i now see mary above mentions .... when i started with conifers.. in the ground... damage tended to appear in mid to late spring.. when the temps started warming.. and that is when the evergreen tissue started browning ... i found it very hard to figure out.. when the actual damage occurred ... and to assign a reason ... especially since in my MI.. i did a lot of fall planting ... one thing for sure.. as the plants aged .. over the years ... the more established the plant became.. the easier they could overcome the effects of winter ... and one very important thing in all that.. was that the plants went into winter.. full of water ... in other words.. in prime shape... especially if it was a drought year ... and that is part of what i was getting at.. in my first reply ... the plants need proper watering.. with proper drainage.. late into fall ... but the media can not be holding so much water .. that you freeze the roots into an ice cube ... and yes.. DAS are carp plants ... over marketed and ridiculously cheap due to such .... perhaps you should stay with them.. keeping in mind.. that they are semi disposable ... just replace them every few years ... due to your location issues ... i suspect some winters you will win.. and others you will lose.. and that is simply the odds you are going to have to accept... in your situation .... ken

Your plan should work, just don't leave them in the garage if they are at risk of freezing. If freezing isn't a problem potting up should be ok, just don't use overly damp potting soil or give them additional water until it warms and they go outside and begin to grow. Personally I would just wait. I can't think of any advantage (plant-wise) to potting them up early.

Looking at your temps, the last couple of weeks have had highs in the 90sF and lows in the high 70sF. At those temps, tomato flowers largely won't pollinate. We've had unusually high temperatures this spring and summer, and I've gotten very few tomatoes at all. As it cools off, you may have more success with pollination, but the question is whether you have enough growing season left to ripen tomatoes. More direct sun may increase the number of flowers, but it won't help with pollination. This has been bad weather for tomatoes over most of the country.