Do you have any ethnic grocery stores in your area, they just might have a larger selection. It is hard to believe that sometime during the summer you don't at least end up with some Florida Avocados. I don't see the difference in the plants so far and any from seed would take way too long to produce any fruit.

Northern NJ is pretty close to my realm in southeasten NY. You can do the mulberry and keep it small with summer pruning to a weep. Fireblight isn't a huge problem here and I've never seen it on any ot the Asian pears I grow, including my favorite, Korean Giant. They do get some stink bug damage on my own site. Seckel is very susceptable to scab and stinkbugs but on some sites never suffers- Bartlett and Bosc amongst others may be easier. Bosc does get some FB, but it's always been managable for me by cutting out strikes. Harrow Sweet is also a good choice. You can try brown-rot resistant peaches, including earlier ones (Red Haven or earlier). Harcrest, Elberta and Belle of Georgia have some resistance also. Keep peaches very vigorous (wide mulched rings help) and look for frass at base which would indicate borers- cut them out or exclude by taping nylon screen to the base with rubber electric tape. Prune them open and summer prune to keep sun and air on fruit. Select blight-resistant filberts (you need 2 varieties). E-mail me at alandhaigh@gmail.com if you want any further guidance.

It won't make seeds or the "fruit" if it isn't pollinated - I found various gardening resources saying to plant male ginkgos nearby if you wanted fruit! occasionally does make fruit if not pollinated though. I still don't know whether a female ginkgo in my front yard would be likely to be pollinated. I tried to find out how far wind pollination works in general, and it seems, often not very far - e.g. for pistachio trees, one source said, 20 meters was the max distance at which 1 pollen grain reached each flower, i.e. the tree was fully pollinated. And outside of that distance the density of pollen goes down as the cube of distance, or a dying exponential, depending on who's being cited. Pollen settles out of the air pretty quickly, after all. It would depend on the size of the pollen grain - but I've heard it is (mostly?) settled out after 15 minutes. When the air is humid it also reduces pollen travel - maybe the grains collect humidity and get heavy and settle out. And the wind carrying the pollen has to pass through obstructions like trees where the pollen settles out. Anyway wind pollination could happen over a long distance, but the question is how likely it is. The only way really to know would be to find out if someone has unfertilized female ginkgos and how isolated they are from the males. I did find something about a female ginkgo tree in Boston that was pollinated at 1/4 mile from male ginkgos. I don't know if there are male ginkgos within a quarter mile.

bob dobs, You are correct. What's more is that some folks put tomatoes in window sills to get them to ripen and you are better off putting them into a bag because it is a released gas that ripens the fruit and putting them in a bag concentrates the gas. Further sun can damage fruit or cook it. I take of fruit after I get some color and let it ripen on my tomato table. This way it last longer and doesn't become bug fodder. One little difference is that sometimes it can effect the color of the ripened fruit. White tomatoes tend to be more yellow when they are in the sun and whiter when under leaves. Also full ripening on the vine can affect flavor in some circumstances but I have noticed little difference. Greg