Toro Timecutter Z5000 - Need help with Hydrostatic Tranny
BongZee
12 years ago
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rustyj14
12 years agoBongZee
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Toro personal pace grinding noise?
Comments (46)Ok folks here it goes. Although there are many things that can cause a Toro personal pace to make all kinds of noises I would like to let you know how to fix at least one issue. After excluding wheel grinding noises and adjustment issues here is an easy fix to the transmission grinding noise. This noise can occur even with good gears and no gear slippage. The problem is that Toro has not chosen to fix a tolerance problem in the transmission casting or case itself. Now make a mental picture of what I am about to say or be staring down inside the transmission housing and gears by removing the axle and transmission unit. The bearing sits in the bottom of the transmission housing then the pinion gear stem fits down through it to the pulley system. The pinion gear then engages the bevel gear on the axel. Now here is the problem; the bearing when sitting in the bottom of the case allows just enough disengagement to create a grinding or howling noise. You may think my solution is quirky but it darn sure has worked. I took a wrench socket and knocked the bearing away from the floor of the transmission case a bit. I then took a piece of baling wire shaped like a washer and worked it between this created space between the floor of the case and the lower or bottom side of the bearing. This moves the pinion gear and the beveled gear to exactly to the correct tolerances. Hence, no more grinding noise. I have a 2005 Personal Pace mower that is actually quieter than when it was new....See MoreB&S 14HP OHV intake valve/ cam lobe
Comments (13)Hi All, especially mownie Thanks for the info on the hydro stat. You are correct. I did dig out a manual from Toro's website that is more detailed than the mower's ! It says the units do not require fluid's at any interval but should be checked from time to time (oxy-moron) They have conveniently provided a 30 inch garden hose that stands up into the frame for expansion only (when the oil gets hot), but it is only possible to check the level by "removing the entire hydro assembly from the mower chassis ! You are right. Then if the oil is degraded, yes, turn it upside down. My feelings are that the right hydro may have leaked some of it's oil and be low, thus causing the mower to pull to the right. The reason is that the right hydro had some oil discharge under the grass cake. So while I have the engine and belts off, I will remove the hydro assembly and service with the Royal Purple Brand. There is nothing better than taking advice from an expert on such things. Thanks. Okay, here's the update. I managed to get the engine out of the bay today after first removing blade belts, hydro belts, PTO clutch assembly, carb, cables etc. Taking off the sump cover/ crank case cover, I peered inside and could immediately see the exhaust cam lobe touching the cam follower. When I looked at the other cam lobe, it was almost circular ! Pulling the camshaft out and examining, I was floored ! There was hardly any indication that the cam was EVER an oval, as it looked round. I could see minimal burring on the edge, but other that that nothing. I had changed oil after my initial problems started happening 2 weekends ago, and the old oil looked dark, but it was almost a full 48 oz load, so it never got low. The new oil I drained before tearing the engine was golden, BUT there was graphite like sludge at the bottom of the crank case and crank cover. So my cam lobe must have been made of #2 pencil lead ! I've taken plenty of pictures if anyone ever wants to see a worn cam lobe, but have no way of posting to this thread. I may try putting them up on my MobileMe site and list the url for you guys. Thanks for the prompt and accurate responses. You guys rock. I'll order parts tomorrow (or try my local lawn mower repair place to see if they carry), and assemble as soon as I get them. In the meantime, I'll clean the thing up while it's on my garage floor. Lastly - The engine speed governor device isn't exactly obvious to put back - Any pointers? Torq settings on crank and head bolts? is 15 ft/lbs? Any particular order ? The camshaft does have the dot stamped in it, but it wasn't obvious what it lined up with at TDC. I had out the engine at TDC before tearing down, and when I looked at the camshaft, the dot was at about 2 o'clock. Should it have lined up with something else?...See MorePlease help newbie with choice
Comments (8)Herus, Working under pretty much the same priorities as you, I bought the Husqvarna tractor you're linking to at Sears (with the mulch kit) about 6 weeks ago. I put a lot of research into the decision and decided this tractor offered the best feature set, reliability, and value for the money. Tell Sears you have a 10% off coupon you could use at to buy this tractor at Lowes and they'll at least match the price by knocking 10% off (making it ~ $1620). You can probably get them to throw the mulch kit in free as well (I did). So far it's performed flawlessly on my relatively flat lot and I expect years of trouble free service going forward. The mulching kit works ok, although I think a set of Gator mulching blades will make it better. The Husqvarna has several advantages to the Deere aside from a lower price. These include being easily able to mow in reverse, electric clutch for the blade (called electric PTO, safer if you have kids and easier to use), a wider deck (mow more grass in less time), and a front bumper. Both models have B&S Intek based V-Twin engines (although the JD supposedly has an updated crank and bearings). Both models have the same Tuff-Torque K46 hydro tranny, which seems to be sufficient for a lawn tractor. The Deere has green and yellow paint though. Either will probably work well for you, one will just cost you more....See MoreToro Z5000 Burning the Grass
Comments (32)Following up on this, I spent some time scrutinizing my mower for a fuel/oil leak and the most I found was some grass/dust residue stuck to the oil dipstick pipe. Nothing close to a leak or enough to explain the regular dead grass spots. Couple observations lead me to believe this is not a fuel/oil leak: 1. The burn spots grow back in 1-2 weeks which means it's very unlikely a fuel/oil leak since grass will completely die and not grow in soil contaminated with petroleum. 2. The burn spots are about 1 ft in diameter which would need a "spray" of fuel rather than a drip. So unless fuel is spraying in a fine & light mist that only touches the grass leaves and doesn't get into the ground, I'm starting to 2nd guess the cause of my dead grass spots and maybe I'm suffering from the same exhaust heat problem. Placing my hand under the exhaust while the ZTR is running even at idle it's quite warm at the grass level. I can only imagine the temperature at full throttle. Unfortunately I still haven't found the definitive cause. I'm considering video recording the full mowing using something like a GoPro so I can then look at the footage to find what was going on near the burn spots to give me some lead(s). I mentioned this problem to the retailer & service center where I purchased the mower and it seemed new to them. They sell other pro- and commercial brands like Skag and have been around for decades, so it might be just that they don't have enough residential homeowners with Toro ZTRs to get a lot of reports. I also use one of those "gripper" tools to pickup sticks but usually I'm only stopped for couple seconds using it. I'm going to look into options for a heat shield....See Morercbe
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