Help with B&S Fuel Pump
jon11
15 years ago
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walt2002
15 years agojon11
15 years agoRelated Discussions
B&S 18.5HP Fuel Pump problems
Comments (13)An excerpt from the bulletin "APSI #: 87 DATE: NOVEMBER 2012 SUBJECT: CYLINDER HEAD TORQUE CHANGE MODELS: 210000 280000 310000 330000 OHV VERTICAL SHAFT ENGINES" "Briggs and Stratton recently changed to a new design cylinder head bolt for model 210000, 310000, and 330000 OHV engines. The new bolts require a higher torque during installation. At the same time, we have modified the bolt tightening sequence to reduce the chances of head warpage at higher torque settings. To prevent confusion, use only the new tightening sequence and new torque value when servicing both older and newer designs, including the model 280000 OHV. The following procedure will replace what is currently shown in repair manual 276781 Single Cylinder OHV Air-Cooled Engines."...See MoreFuel Pump rebuild went bad; fuel in oil
Comments (9)Shucks, I accidentally hit submit . .................................................... Are you quite certain that the gas you are now discovering, was not already in the oil from before you undertook this rebuild? What may be damaged depends on how long the engine "ran" with contaminated and diluted oil. If the engine had been running with gas in the oil before the fuel pump work, I would expect the exhaust would have had a definite blue or blue-white color "smoke" in it. In which case, the most likely components to suffer damage would be the crankshaft rod journal and connecting rod, the piston and cylinder walls might have sustained some "scoring" or galling, but usually, the piston and cylinder of a 4 stroke engine, are "spared" in cases of gasoline contaminated oil in the crankcase. It usually requires that these engines be "run without any oil" before the piston and cylinder walls see damage (of course by that time, the crank and rod is usually "trashed" as well). Consider a 2 stroke engine escapes damage to the piston and cylinder with as little as 1 part oil to 50 parts gasoline. Also consider the the same amount of oil is sufficient to lube the crank main and rod journals in a 2 stroke engine, but ONLY DUE TO the 2 stroke design using ball or roller bearings in those 2 places. Plain bearings in the typical 4 stroke OPE engine will NOT survive long if run with diluted oil. If all the time this engine has actually run with gas in the oil, amounts to a mere 20 to 30 seconds, I believe all you have "suffered" is a solvent washing of the interior surfaces of the engine. Post engine numbers and let's see if we can find some illustrations of that carb. Maybe then we can retrace your steps during reassembly of the pump....See MoreFuel inlet fitting on carb. B&S with Walbro
Comments (8)David, the brass fitting I used was a 90 degree elbow with 1/8" NPT (National Pipe Thread) on one end with 1/4" hose nipple on the other end. But beware, there are NO THREADS in the hole for the 1 piece fitting to screw into. The hole must be drilled out and tapped to 1/8" NPT before a threaded 1 piece fitting will work. If you are set up for this operation you can follow the route I took. A word of caution though, because you must drill the OEM hole larger before you can use the 1/8" NPT tap, the wall thickness of the hole will be reduced (gets pretty thin). Running the tap itself into the hole is not the problem. The problem could arise if you tighten the brass 1 piece elbow too much and crack the wall of the hole. NPT threads are tapered so that an interferrence fit of the two components helps to create a leak proof seal. Being able to tighten NPT threads that much requires that both the hole and the fitting be capable of withstanding that much torque. The thin wall you will have after tapping this hole will not withstand that much torque using a BRASS elbow. I recognized that aspect of the operation before I ever drilled & tapped the hole. Because I was doing this job on a weekend, all the big supply houses were closed and all I could find was a BRASS elbow (at an auto parts store). I wanted to find a NYLON elbow in the same configuration so I could tighten it to the point of sealing without risking cracking the thin walls of the modified inlet hole. I couldn't locate one in nylon so instead I coated the threads just inside the edge of the hole with a tiny bit of JB Weld. Then I coated the threads of the brass fitting with JB Weld and turned the elbow into the hole by "hand only" until it was oriented to face the fuel hose. Some might say "Now you can't remove the fitting." Yes you can if you know how to. But why would I ever want to? My advice to you if you decide to drill and tap the hole is to try finding a 1 piece Nylon or High Density Polyethylene fitting 1/8" NPT X 1/4" hose bib as your first choice. Use the BRASS and JB Weld as plan B. After you drill and tap. it will be necessary to remove the float bowl, float and needle valve so you can blow out the metal cuttings and crumbs BEFORE installing the 1 piece fitting. Makes no difference whether you use a plastic or brass elbow, you still gotta blow BACKWARDS throught the fuel inlet passage or you'll have some clogged up jets in no time....See MoreB&S fuel pump 808656
Comments (2)It vents the chamber so that the diaphragm can move freely. Proper service is to blow across the top of the screen to lift out oily residue if needed. Blowing directly into the port can damage the diaphragm....See Morewalt2002
15 years agojon11
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