Toro personal pace grinding noise?
forreste01
18 years ago
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1saxman
18 years agobaymee
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Toro 20332 model year differences...
Comments (5)I used it once, and couple of things bothering me. First - Level of noise this monster produced. I think it is due to the engine is so powerful. I had Lawn boy 2 cycle for last 15 years, so I guess it is my perception. And another thing I think is more serious. The personal pace system. It works perfect when engaged, but once it disengaged and I push lever down to engage it, transmission is making kind of strange noise. It is not a grinding noise, but you can hear that gears are hitting each other. Again, when engaged it works fine. Does any one experience something like this? Again, for last 15 years I had very simple reliable machine, and all of these new technologies are new to me. Thank you....See Moretoro 20332 belt noise / slap
Comments (5)There are some screws on the top of the deck that when removed allow the plastic belt cover to be removed from the bottom but I think all you'll see when you do that is a loose belt. When you're mowing, the personal pace lever pulls a cable that pulls a spring that tightens the belt. The faster you walk, the more tension on the cable, the spring and the belt. The rattling you hear is likely the belt or the gearbox. Mine does the same thing but it works like a charm. The attached link may be helpful. It's not quite the same model but should give you some insight. Here is a link that might be useful: Toro Belt Replacement...See MoreToro 20073 transmission problems
Comments (17)I've used Toro 22040's in my lawn care business for 15 ears. The trany/drive system is probably similiar if not identical to the commercial mowers. If they weren't problem free workhorses, I would not have kept making the same mistake for 15 years Here are the secrets to the rear wheel miseries on Toros. 1. USE ONLY Marine Grade grease on the rear wheel height adjuster grease zerks. You will be amazed at how something so simple can make such a dramatic performance difference. I found out accidentally when I grabbed the grease gun for the outboard by mistake. Causes of Rear Wheel Slippage. 1. The pinion gear is worn down. They are softer metal than the geared wheel rim. They are supposed to wear down because they are easier and cheaper to replace than the wheel rim itself. You probably don't have split rims which are on the commercials. Or, you allowed a worn pinion gear to grind to long on the geared wheel half and now both need to be replaced. 2. The drive shaft is slotted for a key. The key is rounded over OR you have been using the machine in muddy conditions and the slot is filled with mud, the spring under the key is broken or compressed with aforementioned mud and you haven't been giving the wheel a shot of grease after using it in the mud. The drive shaft is designed so that when grease is pumped into the zerk, the dirt and gunk is washed out of the keyway. Clean the keyway, buy a new spring and key reinstall and give it a few pumps of grease. 3. You been grinding away so long that the keyway on the drive shaft has been wallowed out and the key now sits sideways more or less and doesn't catch the pinion gear. 4. You disassembled the wheel, removed the pinion gear and reinstalled the pinion gear backwards. Yes, there is a right way and a wrong way for the pinion gear to go on. 5. The e-clip that holds the pinion gear in place is missing and has been chewed up by the pinion gear and geared wheel half. 6. And finally, from the symptoms you have provided either the roller bearing or needle bearing or both is shot. When ever you have excessive play either side to side or it looks like the rear wheel drops down when you lift the rear of the mower up, this is what you problem is. The rear wheel adjuster ran about 40.00 bucks the last time I checked but they are easily and cheaply rebuilt by punching the bearings out, taking them to a bearing shop and getting non Toro bagged bearings for under 8 bucks. You don't need a press to get them back in. Just a vice, small hammer and the old needle bearing to use a a seat to get the new one in. the roller bearing can just be hammered in with a piece of wood flush with the adjuster. You will also need a split ring pliers to remove the adjuster...See MoreToro Personal Pace Mower
Comments (11)Dave; you may have gotten lucky and made exactly the right adjustment, but if it's a little too 'tight' it will be hard to disengage the drive for the pull-back. Under the best of conditions you have to keep your arms stiff, stop walking and let the mower coast ahead about a foot or so (the sliding handle returns to the top of it's travel at that time) and the drive clutches-out so you can pull it back if needed. Two things to check; you need at least an inch of free-play on the handle, and the rear wheels should not be driven if you pick up the back end off the surface with the engine running, without pushing the handle down. Another test is to tie down the engine control bail, and with the mower on a smooth, flat surface, it must not 'creep' with the engine running and all hands off the mower. I also found that some 'dry-lube' was very useful on the sliding handle and the handle-tension spring assembly....See More1saxman
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