This is the deal... sand adds strength and it will last double the length of time over those made with just sphagnum peat Moss, vermiculite, or perlite, or even coir (coconut coir - the stuffing type stuff, string like, not the potting mix type). I have had sand ones last 20-30 years sitting outside. Note - I used a penetrating (not a film) sealer on mine (in any cement) to prevent freezing and thawing - you spray after final uncovering before letting them sit for 6-8 months outside. After the soaking, I will spray again, let dry a few days before putting soil in. They need to sit outside to stay damp. All of those items do well but they breakdown over time causing weakness and the more porous, the more vigorous roots can get in the crevices, push through, and cause it to eventually crumble. I have used the perlite, peat Moss, portland cement and if properly cured (cover with heavy plastic until time to unmold, then keeping for 1-2 weeks staying damp (daily misting) under plastic in the shade, then uncovering, putting in the shade and spraying 1-2x daily if the temps are above 85-90+F, just 1x day if under that, let them cure and strengthen for 6-8 months outside before doing a 3 day soak changing the water daily) before using. The soak and daily change is to get rid of the excess lime. Use a pH meter (cheap) or test strips and keep changing until the water gets down around 7-8 or let sit outside for another 4-6 months — you can decorate with them around your porch or only plant something really alkaline loving. But it’s best for long life not to plant in them for the first 6-8 months just staying damp and in the shade. Most plants like 5.5-6.5, a few like snaps, beans, asparagus, alpines, carnations, lilacs, etc like 6.5-7.5. Nothing likes over 8 and it will leach into the potting mix. Your potting mixes will be initially charged with lime to be 5.5-6.5 depending on the manufacturer but that leaches out in about 6-8+ months if outside. Concrete or cement has a pH of 12-13 and will leach into the potting mix or into the water of a bird bath. That is highly corrosive and not good for anything, and it will easily eat through paint. I like the ones with peat Moss, perlite etc, don’t get me wrong - because I can make them look older and I always use grey portland - white looks too unnatural. If I have to use white, I use grey concrete dye. If I use sand which it’s been 40 years since I made and sold them... I use also concrete dyes non toxic cause I like it to be grey and brown looking. And maybe use some of the other things like the coir to add texture and also some strength. The coir you can cut up with shears too to make smaller pieces and singe later if peeking out or just let alone. True coconut coir fiber (it’s from between the outer and inner shells.. ..it’s not coco peat) is used to make rugs/sleeping mats, mattress stuffing, ship rigging and ropes or for fishing nets. I don’t know if it would be stronger than the synthetic fibers but it would be natural. Not sure where to get small amounts but from mature coconuts it’s very strong. Read and a picture in the following https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coir If you have done 6 months (over the winter is best - it also helps you not to get impatient and use too quickly, make in mid to late summer, go through the steps and have the uncovered time from say Sept-May. But if the pH is still high, and you don’t want to wait anymore time - use artificial plants (some are pretty believable) or plant Lily of the Valley Viper’s Bugloss Anchusa Trifolium (clovers) Polemoniums Wild marjoram Lavender California Poppies

Artsymama, Wow, I can't say that I've seen anything like this project yet. I'm quite new to the idea of building my own rocks and walls and stuff, and I've been doing some research over the past few days. I stumbled upon your post in my travels and clicked on the picture links. Wow! That is an incredible undertaking, and it looks really nice. I'd like to ask about the process a bit, if you don't mind typing answers... 1. I can't quite fathom the design behind the hypertufa "facade" front. When you say concrete blocks, do you mean cinder blocks (hollowed 2 cubes in the middle) or the semi trapezoidal style cookie cutter ~10x6 style blocks with the interlocking lips for stacking? I also want much more than the cookie cutter style block look and refuse to accept what every other homeowner does in my area by buying the same things at home depot. The idea of covering the wall afterward with a sculpted natural design like yours is brilliant. 2. What held the blocks together to support all that weight of the hill behind it? What do the rods go through? The center of the blocks? Did you have to drill the holes out (if they aren't cinder blocks)? Do the rods go through multiple layers of blocks and then into the ground, fairly deep? Is it rebar or similar? Do you have any "in process" pictures you would'nt mind sharing? Any pics of the concrete blocks being stacked, then the rods being placed, then the concrete being added to the holes in the system? That would really clarify a lot of things since a picture is worth a thousand words. As I said, I'm new to this and your brilliant design seems to be exactly the idea I want to try to do (only much smaller in length...more like 25 feet!) 3. Do you remember the approximate recipe for your hypertufa mixture? Whatever it was, it was a great mix to get it to do what you wanted in a vertical fashion against the blocks behind it. I still can't quite picture this process and how it held on, being a vertical wall, without tumbling or collapsing on itself when you got to the top. 4. Finally, at what stage or time after the application of the 2 layers did you do the hand sculpting of the "stone" indentations? In the same day? Same hour? 5. Did I mention yet that you and your husband are geniuses?! ;) If you would be so kind as to touch on these many questions, whenever you have some time, and supply some in process pictures I, and I'm sure many others, would benefit greatly and be hugely appreciative. I hope they aren't too much to ask. Thanks much, Brian

Just was in our local Rona store and saw a product I thought you pyromaniacs would be interested in ... it is a repair compound for chimneys and fireplaces and woodstoves. Just wondered if any of us would use it to 'invent' something tufa-ish with it. The company is Bomix© and the product is called Pyromix. The link is posted below. It should take you to the English page but if not, just go to the homepage and select English, and click on products > repair > Pyromix. Let's see what will happen with all our brainstorming. Even if NOTHING happens... well we learned that it can't be done, eh? lol Marly Here is a link that might be useful: Pyromix by Bomix©

Saltlife- I-N-I!! woot woot! Thanks for the encouragement. White Dove is high on my list to look at for cabinet colors. I am definitely wanting to bring in texture to the space. I love the fabric on the couch in my inspiration room. Raee- Simply White is another white I've made note of in many of my houzz inspiration rooms. Thanks! Rosie- notes taken, we are having some built ins on each side of the stone to ceiling fireplace. One side will likely have book shelves, check :) Ruby- the hardware color is giving me fits....at first I was set on black/orb....but I think I will get less tired of a silver color over the long hall. I'm still a bit undecided as to which direction to go in....I like them both. EAM44- Thankfully my builder has an interior designer on staff to help me make the paint choices....but I will say that I am very familiar with Chestertown Buff as we have it in our current family room and love it. It looks much more yellow and very similar to my inspiration room as compared to the swatch you posted (at least in south facing natural daylight) BUT I am open to other colors perhaps a little more cleaner than CB. We also have Hawthorne Yellow our current kitchen and it's "too" yellow for what I'm after. Unfortunately the inspiration room used a custom color that I'm unlikely to be able to replicate perfectly. Thanks for your suggestions, I will add them to my list and evaluate them fully with the interior decorator! Thanks so much to everyone, you guys are all so helpful. Decorating/Design is not a natural skill for me.