Before & After: 1950's Kitchen Remodel on a $15k Budget
a Hef
10 years ago
last modified: 10 years ago
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sbrustein
10 years agoa Hef
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Small 1950's Master Bath Remodel
Comments (12)Superb! Love the homage to the original, and (I mean this in the best way possible) your remodel looks as if the bath was always there. Beautifully fitted into the vibe of the place. Would you share details? (BTW - love the new home you found for those three art pieces - perfect complement to the Turkish tile!) Cheers!...See More15k kitchen budget: what would you do here?
Comments (48)Venting to the outside is not generally a code requirement as far as I can tell *I am not an expert*. Where I live, even a recirculating hood isn't required, so long as you have a window that opens in the kitchen. Induction/electric ranges I haven't seen any requirements to vent to outside, but for gas, there seems to be a bit of a question... e.g. if you have a "commercial" style range vs. a "standard" gas range. So, the code requirements *might* be different for different heat sources where phamm lives. Grease/fumes notwithstanding, I was wondering just about the code requirements for outside vent, as well the safety issue with gas. If there were more stringent requirements for gas, and venting to the outdoors isn't feasible, a move to electric/induction might be worthwhile. I realize however that outside venting *may* provide better removal of odors/grease... although I think a lot of that depends on the distance to the outdoors as well as the capacity of the exhaust fan. For what it's worth, the best outdoor venting I had was the downdraft. I think it captures the grease/fumes/steam before it has any opportunity to disperse. And it was a lot quieter that the over-the-cooktop hood I had installed for a through-the-roof scenario. I have no problems using a recirculating hood now, as they have improved a lot, I prefer to do my cooking in the oven, and I don't use very much oil in cooking... but of course that is not the situation for everyone! When my current smoothtop electric cooktop dies, I am going to go with induction :) If you haven't watched the youtube videos of people putting newspapers/paper towels on the induction cooktop, deep frying food, then throwing the newspaper/paper towels away revealing a perfectly clean surface, you might want to!...See More1950s ranch home - 1st kitchen remodel layout help
Comments (3)For budget reasons, you probably should not move appliances very far. My first thought would be something like the following (hope it is legible). This maximizes counterspace, which may or may not be what you most desire. To maximize storage, the pantry is full-height, and around 15-18 inches deep. It would hold much more than just upper cabinets. You did not show a photo of your buffet window, but I am guessing that you might need to raise the window sill, which could be a big budget item....See MoreBEFORE pics of my Kitchen remodel... Need ideas for my AFTER update!
Comments (24)Chris, I did to my custom cabs exactly what you want to do. They were solid wood, great shape, but after 15 years I couldn't stand the overall dark feel. I had them refaced and everything painted. new countertops, vent hood, splash, window, everything. The company I hired to paint also deals w/refacing. for an additional 2K, I got all new doors, drawer fronts. (I prob have twice the cabs you do, including a 4X7 island) The new doors are all solid maple w/center panels made from MDF. when painting, MDF is a better choice for the panels than solid wood. To answer your questions about getting new doors that aren't painted, yes, they would then have to use a veneer material to skin your base cabinets so that they would match. something else you should change over is the lower doors to drawers. a good refinishing company can also do this for you. I had them make two large drawers in my island where open shelving used to be. so much better for storing large pans have you had any estimates? If going the painting route, make sure you get all of the steps they take in priming. if getting them refaced, those should come raw, so all they have to do is prime and paint. you can also get soft closing hinges. You're prob looking at well over 6-7K for just painting, and then whatever extra they charge for refacing. as for the gap to the ceiling, there are diff ways to tackle that. since your current cabs have a large wood edge (the part above your doors) , it might be difficult to add on boxes to that. you see how the doors immediately transition into the added boxes? You have that 3-4" of wood above your doors. what you might be able to do is get taller doors to cover that, remove the crown, and then build the boxes above that. or, you could add on a decorative molding or large crown This one might work for you. another poster on here had these, but notice how her doors almost touched her crown molding. They removed that Built boxes and then added doors. I believe she told me this cost her 2K to have that gap closed like this these are mine, before. I'm sure people thought I was crazy for changing it. I didn't care. I lived w/it for 15 years, the finish was wearing and I was tired of dark. notice my drawer/door design. see how the top drawers are slab and the others shaker style? This is why I refaced so they would all match. all of the fluted / rope trim and corbels were removed. micro was moved. vent hood made. drawers in island made. doors added to desk area. We did the window ourselves. new marble/quartz, lighting, flooring, appliances. I did Wrought Iron on my island, bright white on the others. there's a double pantry to the left you can't see. You say you don't want white, which is fine, there are plenty of other colors. Revere Pewter edgecomb gray Navy Kendall Charcoal This just gives you an idea. what is your budget? If you say 10K, that may get you countertops and new tile backsplash....See Morea Hef
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