Are these guys giving me the run-around? Roofing explanation needed.
alwayslearning2244
13 days ago
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HALLETT & Co.
13 days agoalwayslearning2244
13 days agolast modified: 13 days agoRelated Discussions
roof run-off
Comments (13)There are few plants on my property. Maybe 15, not counting weeds that need removed. Those are mostly palms of some kind, and sage. There are a few native shrubs. There is an orange, if it wasn't killed in the cold weather recently. The main and only reason for spending any money on harveting and storing rainwater is to fill the pool/pond. Until the asphalt roof is replaced, I would not use that water in the house. The pool has about 13000 gallons, and water is expensive in the desert. If I can use rain to top the pool off with, it would be worth the time, energy, and money needed to build a system. Ella...See MoreYou guys around Raleigh area/KBG
Comments (22)I will wait until at least Tax Day before applying the pre-emergent. The cool season seed (fescue/ryegrass)will germinate before the warm season seed (crabgrass)in the Spring. The soil temperature at 2 inch depth needs to be between 55 to 60 F. for crabgrass seed to germinate. In the Raleigh area, that's usually around mid to late April to early May on average. Remember too that once you have some seed germination (fescue that is) the seedlings will mature very quickly in the Spring vs the Fall. One small Fescue seed, once fully mature, will turn in to a 3 to 4 inch clump of grass. So when you seed germination and notice a few hairs on the ground, those tiny seedlings will become 3 to 4 inches in diameter once the reach maturity and will cover your bare soil nicely. My new seedlings are still alive and growing (very slowly) despite the cold temps. I'm confident they will survive the winter and reach maturity before the summer. I'll take some pictures this weekend so you can see. I also have some seeds in the ground that I hand spread 2 weeks ago before the 6 inches of snow. They are doing fine, and by the looks, they seem to be making very good contact with the soil. One last thing, last year in the spring, around mid March or so, I put down some Bentgrass seeds in the ground in this small section in the yard separated from the rest of the grass for testing purposses. It took about 3 weeds to germinate, and about 2 months to become established. I didn't apply any pre-emergent and not a single crabgrass germinated there. By the time June came, it became a beautiful patch of grass. Still alive today, but dormant. It doesn't look halfway as good as it did in the summer. For some reason it behaves like a warm season grass... Anyway, take some pictures and post them here so I can see your progress. Take care, Auteck...See MoreNeed explanation
Comments (12)Value aside, and from an aesthetic perspective only, I agree that movement in the stem is to be much preferred over a staked standard. A string-straight stem that suddenly develops movement 3 or 4 ft above grade looks very contrived/unnatural, not just in Acer, either. Movement can be introduced in stems of surprising caliper in a number of ways, and the movement need only be subtle to have the desired effect. Trees up to 1/2 inch diam can be wired temporarily like bonsai. Low side branches can often be utilized to introduce movement by training them to near vertical and removing the young tree top. Creative stake placement can be used to train a tree in one direction & a second or third stake can be used to change direction and create movement. Trees can be tied to stays to create movement. Bending techniques are best set in place at the onset of bud movement & watched carefully for signs of damage to cambial tissues (from fastenings). Remove or relocate fastenings a short distance from the original location before damage occurs. Approach grafting the trees own branches is a simple and foolproof way to insure appropriate branch placement if no branch occurs at the desired location. Forgive me if you guys knew all the above. I'm new to the forum, but not to trees & I might be too eager to contribute. Al...See MoreHelp me out here guys
Comments (7)You just need a thermometer that you can get on the return pipe and that will go up to 180 degrees or so. This could be a cooking thermometer or whatever. Just so long as it is reasonably accurate. You should be able to get one at a hardware store or in the housewares section of Target. Be sure to place the thermometer probe tightly against the pipe and wrap it so that you are getting an accurate reading (you can place the probe against the pipe, cover that with a terrycloth rag and then wrap it with duct tape a couple of times). There may be insulation on the pipe already, in which case be sure to get the probe in contact with the pipe by sliding in alongside the pipe under the insulation. Then power up the heat and let it run for a while. You will get a good idea of your water return temps. Here is a link that might be useful: Oven Thermometer...See Moremillworkman
13 days agolast modified: 13 days ago3onthetree
12 days ago3onthetree
12 days agoalwayslearning2244
12 days ago3onthetree
12 days agoHU-0228123141598721
12 days agocat_ky
12 days agoalwayslearning2244
12 days agolast modified: 12 days agoalwayslearning2244
12 days agolast modified: 10 days agoalwayslearning2244
11 days agomillworkman
11 days agoker9
10 days ago
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