Typical charge to install fuse
billscha1
26 days ago
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mike_home
26 days agoRelated Discussions
blown starter switch fuse; bad solenoid?
Comments (22)***"not necessary to disconnect both cables when working on electrical, just the negative/black?"*** That is correct.....So long as the negative/black cable is in fact, the GROUND cable for the vehicle electrical system. And in most machines built in the last 40 years or so, the negative/black is the ground conductor. But you must "cling to" every word of the description. "Negative", "Black", "Ground"! Each word must be considered as a separate and individual criterion when you are preparing to "put a tool" to the battery terminals. (this is a lesson, listen up) There are currently (no pun) no laws governing the colors of wires and cables used in AUTOMOTIVE applications. There are "generally accepted and recognized practices", but no REGULATIONS. Black is nearly universally used as the color (by OEMs) of the negative battery cable, Red for positive cable, but some OEMs might decide to use black cables for BOTH positive and negative conductors leading from the battery posts. And, additionally, you must always consider that the original RED positive cable.....might have been replaced with a BLACK cable. Furthermore, the OEM, BLACK negative cable, might have been replaced with a RED one (you see all kinds of things in "used equipment". The odds of finding a BLACK cable for the positive conductor are actually pretty good, while the odds for finding a RED cable for the negative conductor are slim (but I have found them more than once). Nonetheless, since it only requires that you "look at" the markings on the battery (positive+, negative-), that is what you MUST DO,.... each and every time you prepare to "put a tool" on a battery terminal. ALSO, when you identify the negative post/cable of the battery......trace the cable to where it connects next. If the negative cable connects to the vehicle frame, chassis, or engine block....it is the GROUND conductor. This configuration is what you will find on just about every machine/vehicle of recent manufacture. But, it makes sense to understand the relationship of "color vs. polarity vs. function" in a vehicle electrical system. IF the black cable is connected to the negative battery post at one end, and to the "vehicle ground" at the other end.........that is the only cable you need to remove from the battery in order to render the electrical system "inert" and safe to work on. Even that statement will have "limitations" if the vehicle has advanced electronics and engine/cab controls, but for MOST L&G tractors, it is the best, safest, practice. ................................................... Getting back to your Huskee. Before doing the next test, disconnect the GROUND cable from the battery. Leave all wires connected to the solenoid "posts",.... connected for the test. The black/blue pair will be removed but reconnected in this procedure. To further test whether the solenoid is defective (shorting inside the solenoid), if the first series of tests point in that direction, remove the mounting bolts of the solenoid (where solenoid mtg bracket fastens to chassis/frame. Reconnect the black/blue pair of wires to their same chassis/frame bolt and secure with nut. Use some kind of non-metallic, electrically insulating material (suitable piece of cardboard, carpet, even an old sneaker will do) to set the solenoid on so it can't touch a grounded surface (chassis). Once you have the solenoid resting on the non-metallic material, reconnect the ground cable to the battery negative post. Now, operate the ignition switch to the start position. If the fuse does not "blow" now, it indicates the solenoid has an internal short to ground (fuse DID NOT blow because no ground was provided for the "short" to use). Don't expect the solenoid to operate during the test. Access to the solenoid on my Huskee is somewhat "difficult at best", but I find I can get a better view of it by going in from the right side floorboard/step area (front end of center console and backside of engine). I have to lock the brake/clutch pedal down to get more room for my head. In taking the photos, I went through the battery access under seat AND from the other end I described above....See MorePlants + Installation...how do you charge?
Comments (6)I bill for my time to source the plants at my normal hourly rate. ( faxing in bid sheets, tagging plants at the nursery, arranging the deliveries, sometimes doing the plant loading and deliveries myself on smaller specialized plants that don't meet the minimum del. from the nursery ect... ) I bill the client for the plants with my mark -up on the plants only. I bill the client for the time to do the plant placement on the job site. All of this comes under the heading " Plants" on my invoice. My partner Miguel , the contractor, does all the soil prep , helps me unload my truck and or the delivery trucks, assists me in schelpping the plants into their planting places, plants, stakes, fertilizes and installs the irrigation system and mulches the area. At the end of the job I give Miguel a sheet of paper that lists the quantity of the plants and their sizes. He bills the client for his planting labor time from this plant list. Example _ 20 - one gallon plants - $ 8 each = $ 160 six - five gallon plants - $ 18 each = $ 108 2 - fifteen gallon plants - $ 50 each = $ 100 1 - 24 inch box tree - $ 175. each. = $ 175. Total Planting Labor = $ 543.00 ______________________________ This price break down is explained in our contract. So if the client wants to add more plants than what was originally designed, we have no problem with that, we simply bill the client on a per plant basis. She knows that if she asks for 10 extra one gallon size plants to be planted she will be billed the planting rate of $ 8 dollar per plant So the client is receiving two invoices at the end of the job. One from me for the plant sourcing time and plant placement . One from Miguel for the Demo, Grading, Soil Prep, Planting Time , Stakes and Fertilizers, Irrigation, Hardscape work , Mulch....See MoreKnob and Tube � are these ganged fuses or fused neutrals?
Comments (4)The last guy couldn't figure it out either, that's why there's a subpanel - he left the old service in place because he was confused to heck. Find the smallest-value fuses you can. Replace all of them with that. 12.5A isn't a normal common value anymore, so I'm going to bet that one is the oldest. You should probably try to find more 12.5's and use them in all of the spaces. The problem you're going to find with your incremental replacement is that all of those circuits are going to tie into each other in ways that make no sense to you. A 'hot' wire is going to go up in the wall in one room but the neutral to the same circuit is going to be going the opposite direction in a totally different room. You're going to run a new circuit to one room and when you're pretty sure you're done with all of the k&t wire that goes to the old circuit you're very sure you followed, you're going to unhook that wire and three things you thought were completely unrelated are going to stop working. Been there. Done that. I enjoy the challenge, because this is a bit of a hobby to me - and the history of it is as interesting to me as the work, but if you're a "normal" person with a real life... I feel for you....See MoreHow much do electricians charge to install chandeliers/fans?
Comments (18)I've always installed light fixtures - chandeliers, ceiling fans, outdoor wall sconces, etc myself. I have also designed these types of fixtures, and I wrote installation instructions for all of them. In addition to that, my brother studied electrical engineering for four years before he changed his major in college, and so he is good at helping me. If you have installation instructions, you should be able to do it yourself, although in my instructions, I always say that it should be done by a licensed electrician, but that was just for liability purposes. If you do not want to do it yourself, an experienced handyman should be able to do it, but I would only hire one that I already had already had experience with. I cannot help you with pricing, however, but if you hire someone that you have worked with before, you should get a reasonable bid....See Morebillscha1
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24 days agoAustin Air Companie
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18 days agoCharles Ross Homes
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