A few fun results from minis X OGRS
roseseek
16 days ago
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sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
16 days agoroseseek thanked sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)Related Discussions
Which OGR do you wish hybridizers would use
Comments (47)Great question. I long for more Old Garden Tea roses, and their immediate hybrids. I've often wished I could cross the disease resistant pale yellow Tea roses 'Souvenir de Pierre Notting' or 'Etoille de Lyon' with a Pernetiana such as 'President Herbert Hoover' or 'Etoille de Feu' or 'Duquesa de Penardana.'I never can remember how to spell that name... theres a tilda there somewhere too. all of these roses are disease resistant plants in a local no-spray garden. I'd like to see a flame hued, fragrant ever-blooming Tea-Hybrid that is disease resistant with the rapid re-peat of the Tea class. Locally 'Lady Hillingdon' gets powdery mildew in each of the 4 seasons, but continues to bloom through all, but it is barely fertile. It has been such a popular rose for a hundred and two years, I think another Tea-Hybrid of similar but deeper hues would be a success. A white Tea-Hybrid rose that holds up well as a cut flower would be sublime. I'd like to see a cross between the Tea-Hybrid cl.'Mrs. Herbert Stevens' with the fragrant 'Westside Road Cream Tea' both of which are disease resistant, in my no-spray garden. Or W.R.C.T. X 'Snowbird' or 'White Christmas', which has a sweet fragrance. Alba Semi-Plena for disease resistance, and beautiful foliage, I imagine a white Tea-A.S.P cross through several generations to produce a remontant hybrid. 'Niphetos'X white 'Rose of York'=heaven. I sure do love Tea roses, and Albas. Luxrosa p.s. plan9, look to Groundcover roses from 1990 and onward, many were bred from R. wichurana, and hortico.com sells several of them. I suggest you look for "disease resistant' roses under Groundcovers and then look up their parentage on helpmefind.com I have Ralph Moores 'Simplex' a small remontant wich. hybrid that has apricot buds that open to show white wild- appearing rose blossoms....See MoreWhat class of OGR is best for alkaline clay soil?
Comments (29)regardless of what the stats say on the soil maps, Strawbs, I can definately say my soil is alkaline - not as much as yours but rhodies and azaleas are a distant memory from my northern childhood - our black silty fen soil is top class for cabbages, celery and onions and sugar beet. Anyhow, unfortunately, I am not much of a guide to soil ph and roses since this is an issue which rarely comes up - at least not as much as mildew, rust or blackspot. The only dodgy roses (chlorotic, needing regular sequestrene) I grow have had too close a brush with rugosas - and one of my only Austins, Wild Edric is definately a pale and pasty specimen....although Compte de Champagne comes awfully close and I couldn't say what its parentage is. Annoying, as the rugosas are generally happy with well drained, sandy soil (I am on calcareous grassland. Of course, I do not have the extremes of temperature that you have so I have been able to adopt a blase attitude to ph as it is practically impossible to actually kill a rose here. Nonetheless, not dying is emphatically not the same as thriving - there are roses which are doing considerably better than others. I did expect china roses would be a bit feeble but have surprised me with their general willingness to grow and bloom - Sophie's Perpetual, Mutabilis and Sanguinea have been stars. Even more surprising, the infamous bourbons do well for me too. I would have to say that the majority of my roses are species or close hybrids although I have a weakness for Harkness floribundas. I am incredibly fortunate in that Beales and Trevor White (2 out of 3 old rose growers in the UK) along with Harkness and Legrice are based in East Anglia with similar soil and climate conditions as myself....and fervently believe that this conflation of conditions has a whopping bearing on the subsequent health of the rose once it is planted in my garden so I think you are right, Strawbs, in pondering specific nursery circumstances before considering buying from them....See MoreOGRs from seed
Comments (11)What I did last year was simple actually, it's really fun! There was a big hip on my 'Queen Elizabeth', I placed a baggie around it to stop birds or other animals that might take a taste and loosely tied it with a tie-thingermabob. Sometime in I think October, when the hip is entirely red/orange and less firm, and the flower stem starts to brown, it's okay to pick the hip. Some people let their seeds stay in the hip for a awhile after that. I immediately shelled it, as in took the hip into the kitchen and picked out the seeds. Some hips will have practically all seed to their substance, like multiflora hips, or can be very pulpy ( you can make jam out of that part) and have fuzzy down prickles filling up most of the space, such is the case with many rugosas you see at the beaches in Mass or Maine. Some people actually fill a blender with water, with sand and quickly sand blast the seeds, but I didn't, I was afraid I'd chop them up. Once seeds are cleaned you can take a paper towel and dip it in a solution of water and diluted hydrogen peroxide. There are other methods and alternatives to the peroxide, but I'm not sure what. Now it is time for stratification. I placed the seeds in the paper towel, made sure it was damp but not soakingly wet, fold it for security- then place it in a another baggie. I tape the baggie closed or label it with tape what it is. Generally, if picking hips off of your plants that occurred naturally, you mention the mother plant. Thus if your seeds came from a 'Queen Elizabeth' plant, your seedlings will be 'OP Queen Elizabeth seedlings'. If you put pollen from a different plant one another plant deliberately you label it female x male order, which means you list the bush that's formed the hip, " the mother", followed by the "father" who provided the pollen. You then stick it in the fridge and leave it there for a good few weeks to months. You will start to know if you have germination if the seed coats crack and small things can be visible inside. I sometimes wait for a bit of root formation before planting them, I wanted to be sure. It takes patience, so put it in a place you'll forget about and not bother, like in the butter compartment or something. When you do get some germinations, you can plant the seed in flats shallowly in a very light medium, some people use sand and perlie, other use perlite and other mixed mediums, it just has to be light. You then shine a light (any flourescent light will do, on the flat or pot for a good portion of the day. Since I'm very interested in breeding, and purchase things with breeding in mind, OGR'S are very worthwhile in breeding, however a good number are unfortunately considered dead ends due to sterility. Alba roses, despite having plentiful hips, have a weird chromosome count, thus have difficulty being used in a breeding program. Gallicas seem to be a good class to experiment with, although some are sterile. Same with damasks, a good number of them are sterile. Noisettes are really good. Paul Barden told me that 'Crepuscule's' pollen should be tried on ANYTHING....See MoreBF has newborn resulting from prior hook-up
Comments (60)@JMT - good suggestions, I will see how it goes Sat., and see what BF's mom thinks re shower gifts. @Amber/susan - as to BM trying to have all the power, I've told BF to stand up and be firm, without being pushy. No, BM shouldn't dictate who else sees baby on BF's visits, but it's at her house and she legally can deny entry if she wants until BF gets visits at his place. Yes, she can make plans too, but never is flexible for BF, whom she allows so little time w/baby already, no matter how special his plans are or the ease with which she could change hers to accommodate his if she chose to. BM clearly "gets off" on her control of the situation. @Susan -- BM only involved BF for the money. She has said she'd not have allowed visits at all, but her lawyer said she must. So, maybe she was advised that there is "more to it," but now that baby's here it's too late and she's done all she can to direct the course of things. True, I have no *legal* rights, but I can (and should) voice my concerns to BF and if the situation does not reach a point I can 'accept,' yes, I'll have to leave. The fact that BM has been immature, unreasonable, controlling and condescending so far makes me think it'll be very hard to accept and live with it... @Amber -- BF and I would see each other every weekend and sometimes once mid-week. Before I knew about a baby on the way, BF talked about moving here. No way I can leave my (well-paying) job, there are no similar opportunities in his small town and I have student loans to pay, plus I work long days already so commuting for me is problematic whereas he gets mileage to/from work. Best I can do is move to westside (now on east) and he'd have a 35-40 min commute. Assuming BF and BM split driving so each picks up baby on their days with her, that's not a horrible drive a few days a week, but it's certainly not as convenient as now. On the other hand, schools out my way are *much* better than the crap district BM and fiance moved into, so one would think in the long run it'd actually be best for BF's daughter, if she can get a superior education. Anyway, I won't sacrifice my career for this uncertain situation, not having ever lived with BF or knowing what future with child and BM holds. I also can't continue living an hour apart, feeling more like I have a pen pal than a partner. BF now of course has even less time for me, which wasn't much to start with, but I shouldn't have to put my life on hold while he sorts out his issues. I may suggest taking a break so he's not half-assing being a dad and a boyfriend, and see what happens. Thanks for all the helpful advice. I am still going to meet BM Sat., see what happens on the return court date next month, and take it from there....See Moreroseseek
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