How to un-paint these railings
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Valinta
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Comments (2)Is this screwed into sheetrock or into tile? Whatever it is screwed into will need to be repaired and the holes do not sound like they are moving very far so be certain that you do not break one into the other because then you will have a mess especially in sheetrock....See MoreHow to repair wall after removing chair rail?
Comments (1)After sanding, fill in the area with a thin coat of joint compound or spackle. Then sand again and apply a coat of primer. After the primer dries, check your work with a bright light and apply more spackle if necessary. Mark...See MoreHow do I paint my rusted porch railing?
Comments (9)I prefer to spray cuz I'm lazy :) But I do understand the overspray issue can be difficult and if it's not a huge area, you can easily do a brush, you just have to work a bit harder. You might look for a sash brush, which is nice for nooks and crannies...it's a round brush that comes to a point in the middle, kind of like a pencil does (if that makes sense) verses being flat or flat with an angle. If your metal is basically flat, you can easily roll it. I always just wire brush, and if it's just a little bit by hand isn't a big deal. The sanding is to smooth out your wire work if you have to do a lot of it. If the rust isn't bad and you don't go nuts with the brush (scraping up the iron) You won't need to sand. Primer is something I never skip. It's your long term fix, and many good primers seal well so you would be sealing the metal from future issues, but that said, rustoleum is a great paint for this type of thing and seems to hold up well. I've done metal with and without primer and while the primer jobs always hold up long term much better, the rustoleum alone holds for a few years if the initial problem you're fixing isn't a bad one. Be sure to go beyond your rust areas about an inch or two on all sides as rust is one of those tricky things that can hide in areas near the actual "wound"....See MoreHelp! How to darken stained wood stair posts/railings?
Comments (11)metromom the difference was the product I used. The gel stain I had been using looked OK until direct sunlight or bright light hit it and then every brush mark showed - horrible! The finish chips very easily. The gel stain is somewhat opaque so the grain of the wood tends to disappear too! Polyshades is not at all like a gel stain. It is a stain/poly product and is more transparent than gel stain. I was concerned that it wouldn't provide enough of a color change but it did! The stool in the photo has had only one coat, no rubbing off. The instructions say to apply only a very thin coat and repeat if necessary. I think this is essential for a good result, especially on vertical surfaces, as Polyshades is quite thin and runs easily. If you trust that the color WILL change and make sure you apply a very thin coat only at a time I think it is pretty easy to have great results....See Morecat_ky
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