cladding for siding on home and under overhang
ctoy10
13 days ago
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millworkman
12 days agoRelated Discussions
Repairing severe hail damage--best insulation under siding?
Comments (2)If you are replacing the siding and windows then adding at least 1" of continuous rigid foam on the outside is very worthwhile. The continuous layer stops thermal bridging across the framing (up to 20% of the wall area), and if taped properly eliminates air transfer. On the old part of our house we did 2" of rigid foam outside and blown in cellulose in the 2x4 walls. It made a remarkable difference in comfort and energy use. Spray foam would have been even better, but a lot more expensive. In new England houses getting a deep energy retrofit commonly add 4" of rigid foam on the exterior, that requires a carpenter with some skill and patience to attach the exterior sheathing to the studs. Our addition has 4" of closed cell spray foam in 2x6 walls with 1" of exterior rigid foam. It makes it very quiet inside!...See MoreDry Rot under Vinyl Siding
Comments (3)A vapor barrier would be installed on the interior side of the wall not the exterior. 3/4 plywood would be a good sheathing replacement then asphalt paper or Tyvek then shims or shingles then vinyl siding. You need to add flashing under the window sill if possible. The flashing must overlap the vinyl siding or it will allow water to get behind it. Its not an easy detail. Make rain water will drip from the sill nose instead of running over it and back against the house (a likely cause of the rot). Caulking at this joint will not work for long. If the window sill has insufficient slope or its missing a drip, It might help to add a sub-sill like the Azek 6930 that has a slot on the bottom for he vinyl siding and a drip groove....See MorePartial siding replacement under gables
Comments (1)Jeannine- Nice house. It looks like the remodels were done by someone who wasn't quite rigorous in adhering to the original style, but I don't see it as objectionable apart from the fact that the materials chosen are now needing repair. I live in the Seattle area and have a 20 year old house that has Hardie siding, and can attest that it is impervious to our climate: it won't rot and it holds paint really well. As long as the contractor knows how to properly weatherproof under the siding, it will outlast you. Since you don't have an overhang, it will be critical that the top edge is well sealed in a way that prevents water from infiltrating behind the siding. You can get Hardie siding that looks a lot like what you have, though it won't be a perfect match, and you could simply get it primed if you want to paint it to exactly match the rest of the house. This is their "Cedarmill Siding": At this time, I think it's too hard to try to anticipate what you might do in the future when you do a modern remodel, so I'd suggest you simply deal with the pseudo-Tudor on the front by removing the entire triangular area and replace the whole thing with the Hardie siding as well. The fact that the second story areas bump out is a good thing as it will help the appearance to have a boundary between the old siding and the new siding as it will look intentional, rather than to have a flat plane where the transition would make things look off....See MoreLogs under vinyl siding....
Comments (29)Norewood Architects, I was looking at the Hardie board. It looks like sky is the limit with looks and colors. If we were to change all the siding, would that be the most durable for northern Maine? No sense in replacing with something now durable. The vinyl siding we have only lasted 15 years, and it covered the logs because of the excessive maintenance they required. The siding is really faded & I don’t think it could be painted even if it was appealing....See MorePatricia Colwell Consulting
12 days agoNorwood Architects
12 days agoBeverlyFLADeziner
12 days agoHU-910663146
4 days ago
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