Do you have a contract for this work? If yes, is there a detailed “scope of work” included? If there is a scope of work included, does it provide that the existing bathtub will be removed and a new one installed (supplied by the homeowner)?

Obviously, if there is a scope of work included in a written contact with your contractor, and the removal of the existing tub + installation of a new tub are not listed as part of the work being performed, I don’t understand why your existing tub was removed - or why you were required to pay for a new one?

When you saw that your tub had been removed, did you discuss this in with your contractor in person, or in writing (email or text)?

I assume that you felt as if you had no other option except to purchase a new tub in order to not cause a big delay in the renovation.

Is there a protective film on the new tub (looks like maybe there is on the edge at the bottom of the photo)?

Your contractor should take appropriate steps to make sure that the tub (whether an existing one or a new one) is adequately protected from damage.

I would discuss my concerns re: the black marks + mortar drips with your contractor - and ask how they will be addressed (removed).

Typically, contractors require all materials to be at the house prior to starting the demolition of the bathroom. If there was a misunderstanding between you and your contractor re: whether the tub was being replaced, I don’t understand why he didn’t ask where the new tub was?

Is he a ”one man” shop - or does he have employees? I’m asking this question because I’m wondering if he his employees assumed that a new tub was being installed - and removed it while the contractor was not present? That would be his responsibility to make sure that his employees understand the scope of work being completed.

Now - regarding your question about the ”Schluter board” installation -

This is NOT Schluter board - you have cement board that has been installed. This is very important - because Schluter Board is WATERPROOF - and cement board is NOT.

Cement board has to be installed correctly + a waterproof membrane added.

Are the posted photos the stage where things are currently? I hope so - because you can have stuff addressed.

First, the cement board should not be bowed in the middle. This will cause issues when installing tile. What size tiles are you using? The larger the tiles - the more important it is for the cement board to be level.

Take some photos from farther back - we need to see the entire installation of the cement board.

Seams have to be taped with specific type of alkaline resistant mesh tape (not drywall tape) that is embedded in mortar.

A specific type of screw has to be used - again, not drywall screws (they will rust).

The screws must be installed every certain # of inches (I don’t remember off the top of my head -I haven’t built a shower or tub surround - but I’ve had a bad contractor that I had to let go - so, I’ve learned some things).

The cement board should not rest directly on the tub deck - it should be 1/8-1/4” off the deck so water won’t wick up into it (when the caulk has an opening at some point).

Some installers stop the cement board right on top of the tub flange - others have it go over the flange - my new installer furred out the studs in my walls in order for the cement board to go over the tub flange - but kept it off of the tub deck (as required).

My new installers then used a liquid waterproof membrane (rolled on the cement board - two coats = a specific required thickness per manufacturer) for my tub/shower combo surround. In the separate shower in master bathroom, my installer used Schluter’s Kerdi membrane - it’s like a wallpaper that is waterproof. It has to be overlapped by 2” at all seams to insure correct waterproofing.

A poly sheet (or roofing felt/paper) also can be installed BEHIND the cement board - but it’s an older method - and appears to not be used very often anymore.

Do you have photos of your wall cavity before the cement board was installed?

Does your contract/scope of work include the specific details re: how your walls will be waterproofed? If not, please ask your contractor how he plans to waterproof the surround.

Tile + grout DOES NOT = waterproofing. Tiles are pourous (some much more than others) + grout is not waterproof (even if sealer is used). Your walls should be waterproof before any tile/grout is installed. Tile + grout is just the ”pretty” part of the install. Do not ask him if he installed the poly sheeting behind the cement board - because there is no way for you to verify - so, don’t give him that as a possible way of waterproofing.

He might not be planning to do anything - just install the tile directly on the cement board. He also might not be planning on doing anything to the seams.

There have been MANY, MANY showers/tubs that weren’t waterproofed - posted on Houzz - and the only reason the homeowner discovered that was because he/she posted photos of the area when asking about which tile(s) to select OR had a question about the tile installation - and the photos showed some of the walls that hadn’t yet been tiled (and people on here commented that there wasn’t any waterproofing).

See if there is a gap between tub deck and cement board - post a photo.

How will the edges of the tile be finished ? Are there matching trim pieces (bullnosed tile or pencil trim)? Or - will a Schluter type metal trim piece be installed? There have been many posts where this was not planned for ahead of time - and people had unfinished tile edges left exposed = unattractive. Natural stone and through body colored porcelain tiles can be bullnosed on site (the edges on my marble tiles were hand polished because don’t like pencil trim - and didn’t want to use schluter trim).

Does your surround have a niche? If so, make sure you post good photos of it so people

can see how it’s built + waterproofed. Also, it’s better to have a solid piece used on the bottom + for any shelves vs. pieces of tile with grout joints. The bottom ledge + shelves also need to have a little tilt to them in order for water to drain off them into tub vs. having water accumulate against the back of the niche.

Okay - my comment is VERY long - sorry. I just have had issues with the above types of things - and had to have things torn out. I don’t want that to happen to you (other than having the cement board torn out due to the bulge - which isn’t that painful + won’t cause a big delay if addressed now).

If you have any Qs - let me know. Hopefully, my post will cause some more activity on this thread! Pros know way more about this than do, obviously!

I didn’t sleep last night - hopefully, the above all makes sense.

When I remodeled a bathroom with a tub, my contractor was "afraid" of damaging the new tub and make sure to use several methods to cover and protect it as other work was being done.