Identification: found moss rose (pics)
Melissa Northern Italy zone 8
28 days ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (20)
Related Discussions
Is growing Moss roses in Florida a pipe dream?
Comments (31)Treasure Trail THRIVES HERE!!!I have one in a large pot on Fortuniana, also a smaller one in a pot own root. I will post a picture of from this evening... I lost my phones usb cord, so sorry for the webcam pic. One of my Favorite roses! Just had to walk 10 feet outside to drag it inside. Mel Hulse,I tried twice before it lived. Never has amounted to much here. Lady Moss and Condoleezza do alright here not worth writing home about.Better grafted. Fa's Spotted moss also grows in my yard, not doing the best. But, with the cold December it is filling out.Some black spot on it.Not grafted. Fakir's Delight is an octopus here. VERY thorny like many mosses, close to 10 feet spread I am guessing. Almost ALL of the old moss roses have tried have not lived here grafted or not. Warm and Fuzzy grows here Nicely. Clean. I DO NOT SPRAY! I will say that almost all of my Ralph Moore moss minis have to be replaced like clockwork and really are not worth growing here own root.Grafted ones are better, but not even close to happy in most cases, a few exceptions. I do it for the pollen. I would not encourage most mini mosses in Florida and only a good handful of moderns. I have tried about 40 - 50 types total I am guessing. Kim, I think I will have to try Unconditional Love anyone mention it on RHA? Regards, Andrew Grover St Pete Fl...See MoreMoss Roses
Comments (24)Jill, My conditions, so that we can compare, are very heavy alkaline clay soil, hot dry summers, strong winds at times, chilly but not cold winters (that is, temperatures in the thirties and forties much of the time, but freezes fairly few and rarely dropping below the upper twenties), and an annual average of 40" inches of rain, usually coming mostly in the fall and spring, though the weather has been very irregular the past few years. We keep a heavy organic mulch on our beds, and water, in general, only the first year, while the plants are getting established. The hay mulch is our only fertilizer. Our land is steep, as you probably noticed in the photos, so drainage is rarely a problem, while the clay is highly water retentive. The temperature range insures that we can grow temperate climate plants that require chill hours (tulips, lilacs, Gallicas), but can also grow relatively tender plants like Tea roses and olives. About the water, many established old roses will survive months without water, but they don't bloom. If I didn't worry about the availability of water I would water established roses occasionally--say, once a month, and thoroughly--and would water particularly in the late summer if it stayed very dry in that period, so as to encourage a fall flowering. I think roses benefit from a dry period in the summer, and even if they got enough water then to flower, in the heat and wind of high summer the blooms wouldn't last long and no sane person would want to go out and see them. Many of my roses get some mildew, which is unsightly but not seriously damaging, while black spot isn't a problem in my garden. I've tried modern and old roses, and very few moderns will grow well under these conditions, while a lot of old roses do very well. We have two main garden areas: one is hotter, drier, and exposed to sun and wind, and has extremely compact soil (some of it pottery quality); the other is cooler, moister, shadier, and protected from the wind. In the sunny garden the following roses do well: Teas, Chinas, and Noisettes are the best. Damasks seem to do fairly well here, in some of the not-so-bad (not good) soil. The one I've had longest are 'Quatre Saisons', a mighty champion if you give it half a chance; 'Celsiana', and 'Kazanlik', though the latter looked ratty this summer; the others are still young. Albas can handle drought and take either sun or part shade, especially if they have a good depth of soil to get their roots into. 'Great Maiden's Blush' and 'Queen of Denmark' do very well here, and I've seen 'Alba Maxima' growing well locally; the best of all for a hot, dry position is 'Blanche de Belgique'. But I would try any Alba if I loved that variety. I'm beginning to rethink the Bourbons after having been a non-fan for many years. They do well with the clay soil and dry summer weather, though mine are essentially once-blooming if they don't get any late summer water. If your summer weather is humid I suspect you would have trouble with black spot. The foetida cultivars also do well in hot dry conditions, but are famously susceptible to black spot. There are some excellent old Hybrid Teas around. 'Mme. Jules Bouché' grows all through Italy, always lovely, always healthy; and I hear great things about 'Radiance' and its sports, though I don't know where to get it here. The only English rose that I am reasonably confident of in my conditions is 'Sharifa Asma', which is healthy and strong and wonderfully fragrant. Some other old roses that do well in the sunny dry garden, but not in the very hottest and driest spots, are 'Mme. Hardy', 'Centifolia Variegata', and 'Fantin-Latour', though the last does get mildew, but I don't care. The shadier, cooler, moister site is the best for the Gallicas and also for my many Hybrid Musks, a magnificent group. I hope this is some help. Melissa...See MoreI need advice on pruning Salet (moss rose)
Comments (11)vesfl -- my once-blooming oldies are limited, in that I don't have any Albas or Centifolias, and aside from a few young Damasks in pots, the two I grow are 'Botzaris' (which is rather like a very prickly stout Gallica in habit, which also fits 'Leda' and a handful of others) and 'Quatre Saisons Blanc Mousseaux'. I have a few Gallicas planted where they can sucker if they want. Then there's "Nouveau Monde -- in commerce as" and a couple other oddballs. I've lived with them for a few years now, and let them teach me. So take this with a grain of salt. When I say I prune harder after the bloom, it's to sort of "refresh and contain" the roses. If I just dead-head the once-bloomers, they'll put out their new growth from where I cut off the faded blooms, and that new growth will continue growing, uninterrupted by a second flush, for another four or five months. I've been hypothesizing that the number of actively-growing buds is dictated by the extent of the root mass, as if the roots say "ok, we can support this many growth buds" to the top growth. That number can be contained within a few very long canes each with many active buds, or a lot of shorter canes each with fewer active buds. If you cut long canes back hard, lower growth buds which were sort of suppressed into dormancy by those higher up will sprout, making for bushier canes. If that's not enough, more new canes will emerge from the roots, and/or suckers will form. It's as if the roots say "hey, we said we could handle this many, but we're not getting as much food coming down here....do we need to send up more growth from below?" and they do. I like the Gallicas and 'Bozaris' to be broad, bushy, and low -- maxing at about four feet tall. So after they bloom, I cut the bloomed canes down by half (even if already shortened by a third before they leafed out), remove entirely any with few or no blooms, and if two canes are too close together, I cut out entirely the one that seems less vigorous, or older. From there, they will put forth next year's blooming canes. Because my growing season is longer than yours, I anticipate how big they'll be by Winter and keep that in mind when I'm deciding how much to remove. For you, reducing their length may not be necessary -- they may have only two months of active growth after blooming before going dormant in your area. I also find that doing this prompts suckers to sprout -- if they're in the way, I remove them as I find them. Otherwise, I leave them. The Gallicas were planted where I wanted them to sucker, but 'Botzaris' suckers get in the way, so I dig them out. Then there's "Nouveau Monde -- in commerce as" which I grow as a big climber against a raised deck railing, and a little into a tree. This rose was described by Vintage Gardens as belonging to "growth habit #3", which meant growing into a big, suckering haystack. Its main bulk fans out about fifteen feet wide and nine feet tall. All of its top-growth emerges from one cane emerging from the soil line. It has never sent up a sucker, and the only other cane it had was its original baby cane, long since pruned away. This remaining cane is over an inch in diameter now at the base. It grew up, then I turned it 45 degrees to the left, which prompted laterals, and those laterals were further turned, etc. This meant a LOT of actively-growing buds -- and probably what is suppressing the emergence of any new canes or suckers. So, in this case, I actually want to keep this situation going, because I simply can't fit any more of this rose in its spot -- new canes or suckers would not work. Before it leafs out, I just remove the dead or diseased parts, arrange the stems to where I want them to go, favor the stronger of two that are too close together, cut anything too thin to support a bloom, then snip what's left back just a bit to make it all fit. After the bloom, I cut it back harder, but only the parts extending beyond the top and sides of the railing. All the stuff below I pretty much leave. October 2013 -- six months after coming as a band. Note the cane going up against the railing -- this was trained to the left as it continued growing. Note the new shoots that seem to be coming from the roots -- they're not. They are laterals on that cane against the railing. Note the thin, twiggy bits down front -- those are the baby canes, which I later snipped away. Here it is in May 2014 -- baby canes still there, but all new growth you see along the railing began as laterals on that first new cane. There's also a clematis growing into it. May 2015 -- see how laterals upon laterals are growing? I got that starting because when the laterals went up and over the railing too high, I started tucking them back down to between 45 degrees and horizontal, in the opposite direction of the cane which sprouted the lateral, prompting those laterals to make laterals, and repeat. Lots of top mass suppressed more new canes and suckering. The baby canes are still there, but I cut them off after the bloom. April 2016 -- ok, now it's really getting huge, and still all of this is laterals upon laterals upon laterals.....from one main cane. If you look in the second pic, you can see that I've already cut the longest canes, which were long enough that they were arching toward the deck floor from their weight. Snipping them back made them stand upright. I then shortened those laterals, and trained them horizontally (or nearly so) against the top of the deck railing (after these pics were taken) And late May 2016 -- you can see the lateral-upon-lateral effect going on. Elsewhere, 'Duchesse d'Angouleme' (the one aka 'Wax Rose') is being trained the same way, but it's growing much more slowly than did NM-ica. Same idea, though -- one main cane, trained sideways, causing laterals to sprout, those laterals also trained sideways, those also sprouted their own laterals, etc. All that top growth is suppressing new canes and suckers below, so no worries about it taking over. So, long story short, I prune them after learning what they want to do, what they can do, and bending that to work for what I want them to do. :-) ~Christopher...See MoreJoin the Alba and Moss Rose Share 2022!
Comments (119)@portlandmysteryrose aww, thanks. There is a good bit of room where I am at presently (rural, 1.0+/- acre) and to have any more space simply means carving out new space from the dreadful lawn (I hate lawns for several reasons, hehe). It's still early in the process, but I've finally found a home that I've put an offer in on and things are moving forward: this home is rural and on over 2 acres. Sure, a lot is wooded (love my forests), but there is a bunch of great, sunny space for gardens and my roses. No lie, I'm terrified, but things will work out just fine. You know; I didn't know that Gabrielle Noyelle was a rarer moss! I do love her soft apricot blooms, and plant habit aside, I figure the blooms are as close as I'll ever get to having 'Safrano' in the garden here in the North! Steven...See MoreMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
27 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
26 days agojacqueline9CA
24 days agostillanntn6b
24 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
24 days agolast modified: 24 days agobellegallica9a
24 days agoportlandmysteryrose
24 days agolast modified: 24 days agojacqueline9CA
24 days agoMarlorena
23 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
23 days agoportlandmysteryrose
23 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
23 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
18 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
17 days agolast modified: 17 days agoMelissa Northern Italy zone 8
17 days agoportlandmysteryrose
2 days ago
Related Stories
FUN HOUZZDoes Your Home Have a Hidden Message?
If you have ever left or found a message during a construction project, we want to see it!
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGN7 Low-Maintenance Lawn Alternatives
Turf isn't the only ground cover in town. Get a lush no-grass lawn with clover, moss and other easy-care plants
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSMy Houzz: Pretty Meets Practical in a 1920s Walk-Up
Creative styling gives an 800-square-foot rental such an inspired homey air, you might just miss the office in the living room
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNGarden Walls: Gabion Evolves From Functional to Fabulous
The permeable rock-, concrete- or glass-filled steel cages are showing up as retaining walls, planters, benches and more
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDESMy Houzz: Light Emerges in a Dark Victorian House
A designer freshens up her family’s period home by opening rooms to sunlight and decorating it in light, bright colors
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHouzz Call: What’s Your Favorite Backyard Beauty?
The simple, honest daisy is this writer’s go-to garden flower. We want to hear which plant, flowering or otherwise, gives you special joy
Full StoryDESIGNER SHOWCASESHollywood Glamour at the 2016 Wattles Mansion Showcase House
Designers take inspiration from their favorite movies and Hollywood icons to decorate rooms for this Southern California show house
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Garden Combo: 3 Wonderful Plants for a Deer-Resistant Screen
Protect your privacy and keep deer at bay with a planting trio that turns a problem garden area into a highlight
Full StoryCONTAINER GARDENS3 Steps to Creating Quick, Easy and Colorful Succulent Containers
Take a bright container, add a colorful succulent or two and have a professional, summery design in minutes
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSMy Houzz: Artists Find Their Dream Home in the Country
Their own and others’ creative works fill their renovated house and studio in Australia's Southern Highlands
Full Story
monarda_gw